502 
HOSPITABLE EMENDS. 
town of Maracay was heretofore the centre of the indigo 
plantations, when this branch of colonial industry was in its 
greatest prosperity. The houses are all of masonry, and 
every court contains cocoa-trees, which rise above the habi- 
tations. The aspect of general wealth is still more striking 
at Maracay, than at Turmero. The anil, or indigo, of these 
provinces has always been considered in commerce as equal 
and sometimes superior to that of Guatemala. The indigo 
plant impoverishes the soil, where it is cultivated during a 
long series of years, more than any other. The lands of 
Maracay, Tapatapa, and Turmero, are looked upon as ex- 
hausted; and indeed the produce of indigo has been con- 
stantly decreasing. But in proportion as it has diminished 
in the valleys of Aragua, it has increased in the province of 
Varinas, and in the burning plains of Cucuta, where, on 
the banks of the Eio Taehira, virgin land yields an abun- 
dant produce, of the richest colour. 
We arrived very late at Maracay, and the persons to 
whom we were recommended were absent. The inhabitants 
perceiving our embarrassment, contended with each other 
in offering to lodge us, to place our instruments, and take 
care of our mules. It has been said a thousand times, but 
the traveller always feels desirous of repeating it again, that 
the Spanish colonies are the land of hospitality ; they are 
so even in those places where industry and commerce have 
diffused wealth and improvement. A family of Canarians 
received us with the most amiable cordiality ; an excellent 
repast was prepared, and everything was carefully avoided 
that might act as any restraint on us. The master of the 
house, Bon Alexandra Gonzales, was travelling on com- 
mercial business, and his young wife had lately had the 
happiness of becoming a mother. She was transported 
with joy when she heard that on our return from the Eio 
Negro we should proceed by the banks of the Orinoco to 
Angostura, where her husband was. We were to bear to him 
the tidings of the birth of his first child. In those countries, 
as among the ancients, travellers are regarded as the safest 
means of communication. There are indeed posts estab- 
lished, but they make such great circuits that private persons 
seldom entrust them with letters for the llanos or savannahs 
of the interior. The child was brought to us at the moment 
