I02 BLOOMFIELD RIVER chap. 
with their own milk, which gives them a polish, and the 
more shiny their little bodies become, the greater is 
considered the beauty. 
While I was here a great many inland natives came 
down to the coast for ripe berries and turtles' eggs. 
Most of their dainties in the way of food — for instance, 
the wild turkey's eggs — the old men only are allowed to 
eat ; they tell the others that they would die if they 
touched them, and thus secure the best of everything. 
Bloomfibld Rivbr. 
I left Cooktown on the 2ist for this river, starting at 
seven in the morning in H.M.S. Lizard. It was blow- 
ing very freshly as we left the harbour ; the waves 
gradually got wilder and wilder and the wind drove 
more furiously every moment, and I made my way very 
quickly to the cabin, where I lay, not daring to raise 
my head, feeling unutterable things. It was not long 
before we were in the teeth of a regular gale ; its full 
force was upon us and we were pitched and tossed from 
side to side with the snow-crested mountains behind 
and around. The steamer shivered and groaned as 
the overwhelming strength of the waves and wind to- 
gether heeled her over, almost swamping her before she 
had time to right herself again; now we were high up on 
the crest of a wave, and now down in the trough of the 
sea ; the wind howled and shrieked through the rigging. 
Captain P. came down to me, and said, ** I am very 
sorry, but with such a sea and wind it would be im- 
possible to enter the river. What had I better do ? " 
Here was a nice fix ! They had to meet the Rapid 
on a certain date, and the navigating lieutenant said, 
" Even if we returned to Cooktown we could not get in 
there with such a sea." I knew this coast well, and 
suggested running into shelter until the wind went 
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