FORCING POTATOES. 
133 
or boxes. They do not require excessive heat ; the tempe- 
rature must be progressive"; beginning at about 50° for the 
nursery-bed, and from that to 60° or 65° for fruiting. 
When the leaves of the plants are fairly expanded, they 
may be transplanted into rows from twelve to eighteen inches 
apart ; observe, the earth in the fruiting bed should be from 
twelve to eighteen inches in depth. 
As the Peas pi ogress in growth, the earth should be stir- 
red ; and when six inches high, small sticks may be applied, 
so that the tendrills of the Peas may easily take hold ; and 
they should be moulded at the bottom to enable them to sup- 
port themselves. 
When they are in blossom, nip the top off ; this greatly 
piomotes the forming and filling of the pods ; they will re- 
quire to be regularly watered, and as the spring advances 
they may be exposed to the weather, taking care to sneuei 
*them in the event of a sudden change. 
FORCING POTATOES IN HOT-BEDS. 
Potatoes may be forced in a great variety of ways. Those 
who attempt to mature Potatoes in frames, will of course 
provide such of the earliest kinds as are not inclined to pro- 
duce large tops ; the Broughton Dwarf, Early Mule, Nonpa- 
reil, the Oak, and the Asli-leaved, are of this description. 
Potatoes may be forwarded in giowth previous to being 
planted in the beds, by jDlacing them in a warm, damp cellar. 
Some forward them in pots and boxes, and afterward mature 
them in a hot-bed; others plant them in the bed at once, in 
which case the bed should be moulded from fifteen to twenty 
inches deep, and the heating materials should be sufficient 
to keep up a moderate heat for two or three months. 
Perhaps the most convenient way to force Potatoes in this 
climate, is to provide pots for the purpose ; plant one set in 
each pot in J tmuary, and set them in a warm cellar, till a bed 
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