MEHEMET ALI'S COUET 229 
ments, sofa'cl all round the walls, and covered with rich 
Turkey carpets, to the private audience-chamber. This 
was splendid, surrounded by looking-glasses ; the walls 
above pale satin, with worked crimson and gold flowers, 
the windows some 15 feet high, with transparent blinds, 
worked also with most superb groups of flowers, exquisitely 
imitated. All round were sofas and cushions of satin, 
worked with carnations, fuchsias, and roses. Mehemet, an 
old cunning-looking man, in a plain, olive-green braided 
coat, sat in the right hand corner near the window, and 
received us standing. He conversed with Lord D. by means 
of a Dragoman interpreter, we all being ranged round and 
forming a gorgeous cortege. Behind were several other 
gentlemen, who came, but took no part, including his son 
and son-in-law, and many plainly attired domestics. In a 
few minutes each. Lady Dalhousie included, was furnished 
with a pipe 6 feet long, having amber mouthpieces full of 
brilliants, the mouthpieces as thick as my arm almost, and 
8 inches long. The bowl was placed in a silver' dish on the 
ground ; and we all whiffed away. The servants then 
brought coffee in little egg cups, set in gold filagree holders, 
blazing with diamonds. . . . The same attendants removed 
pipes and coffee cups ; and we all retired much pleased with 
all we saw. 
The troubles of the old Overland route, even under 
the gilding of the Viceregal aegis, merit description. The 
journey to Suez took nineteen hours. Hooker himself barely 
escaped the hideous discomfort of doing this on a dromedary's 
back. By some mistake, the disembarkation of the ordinary 
Indian passengers at Alexandria had not been telegraphed 
through by signal till after he had set off to visit the Pyramids. 
It would have been highly inconvenient for both parties to 
travel together across the desert ; accordingly the Governor- 
General prepared for early departure, and when Hooker re- 
turned he found all the luggage had gone on ; and he was in 
consternation, having only two hours to pack, get his fossils 
sent home, and go to the Consul's, whence they were to start. 
* We were prohibited taking anything but a tiny carpet bag ; 
so I hired a fleet Dromedary for my baggage (my very heavy 
