252 TO DARJILING : FIRST HIMALAYAN JOURNEY 
kept tho warlike Ghurkas from over-running Bhotan ; 
unluckily we did not demand even a nominal tribute from 
the Rajah, who at once fell under the influence of China, 
whose policy it is to rule the Councils and hearts, but not the 
people, of these three Border powers ; and by teaching them 
a wholesome dread of the English, they exclude the latter 
from these several States and prevent our interfering with 
the Chinese Trade from the East into Thibet. Darjeeling 
is a narrow slip of land, running north into the heart of 
Sikkim, about halfwaj^ to the snow. It was bought from the 
Rajah to be a Sanatorium for sick Europeans (as Simla, 
Mussoorie, Nainee-Tal, AhixOrah, &c. &c.). We paid 3000 
rupees for the freehold, stipulating also that merchants 
should have a right to trade to Sikkim, but made no agree- 
ment of the sort for travellers, surveyors, or any other class 
of people, who] 11 the saucy Rajah excludes from his kingdom. 
Had we acted with any vigour in our policy, we might still 
have retained our power over the Rajah ; but I look upon 
the conduct of the local Government of Calcutta and the 
Political Resident here as weak to a degi'ee and prejudicial 
to the interest of the country. The Rajah, who has not a 
soldier to his name, refused to allow the Sm'vey or- General 
(a man whose Indian power and appointments would astonish 
an Englishman) to visit a mountain twenty miles from 
hence, and not only the Surveyor- General but the Govern- 
m.ent who applied for him, only granting it Vv4ien Col. Waugh,^ 
disgusted with both the Rajah and Government, went (as 
I did a few days ago) without the permission of either. 
I have explained all this to Lord Dalhousie and asked 
him to send me to the snow^. whether the Rajah likes it or 
not ; offering to be the means of making any overtures to 
that Prince, which may render my mission less miacceptable 
than the appearance of any Feringhi must be. Dr. Campbell, 
the Political Resident, recommended that the Rajah should 
be asked, knowing as well as I and Lord D. do that, though 
the Rajah dares not refuse, he does dare to withhold an 
1 Sir Andrew Scott Waugh (1810-78), knighted 1861, reached India in 1829 
as a lieutenant in the Bengal Engineers, and in 1832 joined the great trigono- 
metrical survey, in which he distinguished himself so much that the surveyor- 
general, Everest, when lie retired in 1843, obtained his nomination as successor 
to that important office, though still onl}' a subaltern. Waugh gave the name 
of his old chief to the Himalayan peak Deviduiiga, which proved to be the 
highest in the world. 
