270 TO DAE JILING : FIEST HIMALAYAN JOUENEY 
It would take pages to describe the various groups of 
bystanders : mild Lepchas in striped cotton, long naked 
limbed Goorkhas of model muscle and saucy air, Bhoteas 
of all shades of Chinese feature ; Bhotanese, or subjects of 
the Dhurma Eajah, vieing with one another in rags, dirt, 
hideous ughness and quaint ornaments, some deeply scarred 
with smallpox and the pits such receptacles of blackness 
that theu' visages looked as if peppered with duck-shot. 
Most have turned up eyes, very prominent cheek bones, 
projecting baboon mouth and large teeth ; nearly all are 
of villainous countenance, of singularly low forehead and 
bad cut of head ; the predominance of the animal propensities 
(fid. the phrenologists) being well displayed from the custom 
of chpping close the hair. 
The Cis-Himalayan Bhoteas, whether of Sikkim or, worse 
still, of Bhotan, are as uncouth a race (short of savages 
like the AustraHan or Fuegian) as I ever beheld. A httle 
sprinkling of Hindus and Mussulmen, chiefly our servants, 
with the above comprises the oriental population. Amongst 
them all were Mrs. Campbell's beautiful children, holding 
by our hands and as indifferent to the wild races about them 
as an Enghsh child is scared by the sight of an English 
beggar-man. 
And now I daresay you will be ready to ask, what con- 
fidence I can expect to repose with remarkable prudence in 
such a gang — and this is easily answered. I take no money, 
and my plant papers and instruments are poor plmider. 
The people, though so averse to foreigners, do neither! rob 
nor injure ; were they inclined to, the Eajah's power over 
his people and his mortal dread of us would be a sufficient 
protection. Further I have the Nepalese guard before 
whom, for very shame, they must be pohte and attentive, 
and in whom, as acting under the orders of their Govern- 
ment, the most imphcit reliance may be reposed, for the 
Goorkha, when under orders and in confidential employ, 
is the soul of honor and of pohtesse too. Lastly, as they 
will not get a rap of pay till they bring me back safe and 
what they will receive then will be a fortune to each, they 
will consult their own interests as well as mine. So I expect 
devoted service from my guard, for it is their pride to devote 
themselves under such orders and auspices, companionship 
