PEESONAL INFLUENCE 271 
from what Lepchas I may take, passive obedience 
from such of the Eajah's men as may accompany me, 
perhaps a httle obstinacy and presumptuous interference 
at first and insolence which I can better check with 
ridicule and exposure before the Goorkhas than by any 
other means. The Bhotea porters will keep one eye on 
me and the other on the Rajah's men and serve both 
masters if they can. 
M}'" great aim is so to conduct this attempt that it may 
be followed by another and to avoid suspicion. This will 
be difficult in Sikkim, and for the first few m.arches I shall 
make few or no observations, excepting of the barometer 
&c. in my tent, the only explanation a Bhotea can harbor 
of which is my desire to take the country. In Nepaul I 
may do as I like, the Goorkha having no orders to stop my 
observing ; but in Sikkim I cannot knock a stone or pull a 
plant without disturbing the Gods, in other words exciting 
suspicion. I go, however, ostensibly as a botanist, and I 
will warrant that before two days are over every man jack 
of them will be collecting for me. I have always found 
frankness and kindness good policy with any nation, es- 
pecially if combined with a reasonable amount of personal 
vanity, which I abundantly possess, and assumption of 
superiority and, above all, a liberally flattering opinion of 
the people openly expressed.^ 
The Eajah's people first offered carriers and porters, 
thdn withdrew the offer, which I am glad of, as the latter 
will be more my own people and have a double interest in 
behaving well ; they, after some hesitation, give me a guide ; 
he looks a good man enough and Campbell has seen him 
repeatedly. He is to accompany me to Nepaul too if I 
like, but this will depend on what sort of servant I find him. 
1 In the end the personal impression left on the Sikkiniese by Hooker was 
remarkable. Twenty-two years later the country was again visited by a Euro- 
pean, the botanist and traveller, Mr. H. J. Elwes^ F.R.S. Even then, Mr. Elwes 
tells me, the Lepchas almost worshipped him. The learned Hakim, so friendly 
to his men and to the villagers, hale or sick, was remembered as an incarnation 
of liigh wisdom and kindly strength ; and in 1908, after fifty-nine years, he was 
still a living memory (see the illustration which follows). As an observer, also, 
a high tribute is paid him by Mr. Elwes. Of all the countries in which the 
latter travelled, here only, whatever he saw, he saw with his predecessor's eyes. 
Hooker had noted everything that he himself found of interest : nothing was 
missed ; places and objects all clearly described and promptly recognised. (See 
ii. 125.) 
