148 
THE PEHCH. 
disappears until spring, — probably secluding himself in the 
depths of the river. 
“ The back fin of the perch is large, and anned with 
strong spines. He is bold and ravenous. He will not give 
way to the pike or to the black bass ; artd though he may 
sometimes be eaten by them, his comrades will retaliate upon 
the young of his destroyers. 
“ The proper bait for the perch is the minnow. Ho will 
take that all seasons. In mid-summer, however, he prefers 
the worm, at which he generally bites freely. He is often 
taken with the grub, or with small pieces of fish of any kind. 
“ He is a capital fish at all times for the table. His flesh 
is hard and savory. He should be fried with salt pork rather 
than butter, and thoroughly done. He makes good chowder, 
though inferior for that purpose to the black bass or the yel- 
low pike. 
“A difference of opinion exists among our most tasteful 
icthyophagists, as to whether this fish should be scaled or 
skinned. Let me tell you how to skin him. Take a sharp 
pointed knife, and rip up the skin along the back, from the 
posterior extremity of the back fin, on one or both sides of it, 
along its whole length — then take the fish firmly by the head 
with the left hand, and with the right take hold of the skin of 
the back near the head, first on one side and then on the 
other, and peel it down over the tail. This being done, oil 
the fins are thereby removed except those of the back and 
belly, which are easily drawn out by a gentle pulling towards 
the head. Cut off the head, and you have a skinless, finless 
lump of pure white llesh. Some say this is the only way a 
perch should be prepared for the cook’s art — others say it 
impairs the flavor, and should never be pursued. As for me, 
I say, ‘ in medio tutissimns ibis ' — neither of the disputants 
is infallible. Much, very much of the sweetness of the perch 
and indeed almost all fishes, resides in the skin, which should 
