104 
DR. MILLER S 
The object of the two parts to the bottom-bar is to allow the 
foundation to come down between them, thus making a close fit 
without any pains to cut the foundation exactly. After the comb 
is built in the frame the bottom-bar is no better for being in two 
parts — perhaps not so good. Some of my frames have a solid 
bottom \7%ix\%x%, with the foundation cut to fit exactly down on 
the bottom-bar. I like them just as well. 
The side-spacing, which holds the frame the proper distance 
from its next neighbor, is accomplished by means of common 
wire nails. These nails are 1J4 inches long and rather heavy, 
about 3-32 inch in thickness, with a head less than % inch across. 
By means of a wooden gauge which allows them to be driven 
only to a fixed depth, they are driven in to such a depth that the 
head remains projecting out a fourth of an inch. 
Each frame has four spacing-nails. A nail is driven into each 
end of the top-bar on opposite sides, the nail being about an inch 
and a half from the extreme end of the top-bar, and a fourth of 
an inch from its upper surface. About 2 l /$ inches from the bottom 
of the frame a nail is driven into each end-bar, these nails being 
also on opposite sides. Hold the frame up before you in its nat- 
ural position, each hand holding one end of the top-bar, and the 
two nails at the right end will be on the side from you, while the 
two nails at the left end will be on the side nearest you. The end- 
spacing is done by means of the usual staple, about inch wide. 
Q. How is the foundation fastened to the top-bar? 
A. I prefer what is the usual way at the present time, as sug- 
gested in the foregoing description, the foundation being received 
in a saw-kerf and wedged there, but it can be fastened in any 
other way. 
Q. I would like to ask your opinion, after reading your book 
entitled “Fifty Years Among the Bees.” On page 83 you give the 
dimensions of your frames, and further on you mention splints, 
which I think I would like. How would it do to make the bottom- 
bar the same thickness as the top-bar, and instead of having two 
grooves, one for foundation and one for wedge, have only one 
groove in each bar? Then by having a board nearly the same 
size as inside of frame, and thick enough to come to bottom of 
grooves, the foundation, by buckling a trifle, could be made to 
enter grooves? After boiling the splints in wax, buckle them into 
place the same as foundation. Then use hot wax along the top 
and bottom-bar to fasten it in. This would reduce the size of 
frame, but with the Hoffman frames I find it hard to get the bees 
to build down to the bottom bar as they should, so lose some 
space there anyway. 
