THOUSAND ANSWERS 
273 
cession fit to take them out. Indeed, the two good days may be 
several days apart. Possibly one reason for the difference lies 
in the condition of the bees. The night before mine are taken 
out, doors and windows are open to the widest, and all night long 
they have fresh air. So, when they are taken out they do not feel 
the change of air, and often they do not fly out of the hive at all 
for some minutes after being put on the stands. If taken out of 
the close air of the cellar when they are uneasy, they may get so 
excited that they will swarm out. 
A big rag made very wet is one of the best things to lay 
against the entrance when you want to keep bees in temporarily, 
but I doubt that it would help any in the case under considera- 
tion. I would rather have the bees so quiet that there is no need 
to fasten them in. Try giving them a tremendous airing the 
night before taking out. Contract the entrance immediately on 
setting the hive on its stand. 
Wintering Out-of-Doors.— Q. How is this for wintering bees: 
In the late fall, after the honey-flow is over, place a piece of bur- 
lap over the brood-frames and place a super filled with dry leaves 
on top of that? (Tennessee.) 
A. For your locality it would be hard to find anything better. 
Q. What is the best plan to adopt in an effort to winter bees 
on the summer stands? 
A. I would rather trust a single-walled hive in a protected 
place, sheltered by buildings or trees, than a double-walled hive 
fully exposed to the sweep of winds. If no other protection is at 
hand, go back to that of our grandfathers. Make a shed, under 
which the hives stand in a row, only a little higher than the hives, 
closed on all sides but the side of the entrances, and then pack 
straw in all the vacant space irside the shed. Even cornstalks 
piled about a hive, wigwam shape, produced quite good results 
with one man not five miles from us. 
Some have an outer case allowing a packing of leaves, planer 
shavings or other loose material about the hive to the extent of 
three or four inches on all sides and probably six inches on top. 
Others omit the packing-case and hold leaves in place by a frame 
of coarse netting. 
Q. On account of my apiary being some distance from my cel- 
lar, I am thinking strongly of wintering outdoors. My bottom- 
boards are reversible with the deep side two inches. My hives 
are 10-frame dovetailed, (a) Should I use the deep side for win- 
ter? (b) How much of the entrance should be closed? 
