122 ISLAND OF ANTIPAROS. 
CHAP, in consequence was driven upon the shallows. 
IJ ' We went on board ; and found the master 
squatted within his cabin, smoking, and listen- 
ing to a duet performed by two of his crew 
upon a drum and a lyre, while the rest were 
gone in search of people to assist in hauling the 
vessel off the rocks. Nothing could exceed his 
perfect Moslem indifference; for although it 
seemed to be doubtful whether his vessel would 
ever move again, or, if she did, whether she 
would not go to the bottom in consequence of 
the damage she had sustained, he would not 
stir from the seat where he had remained from 
the moment the accident happened. 
We landed upon the barren island of Anti- 
paros, and were conducted by the Governor to a 
small village : here we found a few inhabitants, 
who were described to us as the casual legacies 
of different vessels, and principally Maltese, 
taken by corsairs, and left on shore to shift for 
themselves. Some of them provided us with 
mules, ropes, and candles for the grotto, which 
is situate near the summit of the highest 
mountain of Antiparos, in the south part of the 
island. As we rode along, our beasts were ter- 
rified by the attacks of the gad-fly, an insect 
which infests every one of the Cydades. Having 
