L I G U R I O. 397 
suffered themselves to be horsewhipped and CHAP. 
driven from their homes, owing to the dread i -,-'-' 
in which they hold a nation of stupid and 
cowardly Moslems. We should not have seen 
another Ligurian, if Antonio had not intercepted 
some of the fugitives, and pacified their fears, 
by telling them who the travellers really were ; 
and that Englishmen would accept of nothing 
from their hands without an adequate remu- 
neration. After this assurance, several times 
repeated, and a present being made to them of 
a few paras, we were conducted to what is 
called a Condk, or inn ; but in reality a wretched c<m&k, or 
hovel, where horses, asses, and cattle ot 
every description, lodge with a traveller be- 
neath the same roof, and almost upon the 
same floor. A raised platform about twelve 
inches high, forming a low stage, at one ex- 
tremity of the building, is the part appropriated 
to the guests; cattle occupying the other part, 
which is generally the more spacious of the 
two. Want of sleep makes a traveller little 
fastidious as to where he lies down: and fatigue 
and hunger soon annihilate all those sickly 
sensibilities which beset men during a life of 
indolence and repletion. We have passed , 
many a comfortable hour in such places : and 
when, instead of the Conak, we were invited 
