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fumigation they should be brushed and shaken and all indications of the 
previous presence of moths removed. It is important that they be rolled 
or folded as little as possible in storage. If they can be hung up in a moth- 
proof room or case, so much the better. Heat and lack of moisture are 
especially detrimental, and a room with a temperature of about 40 degrees 
F. or less is desirable. If the skin is allowed to become very dry it will 
split and tear on the least provocation and the hair will fall out. The skin 
side may be treated with vaseline, warmed and rubbed in thoroughly in 
small quantities. Care should be taken not to use oils which acidify, as 
they will “burn” the skin ; olive oil and neat’s-foot oil which are sometimes 
recommended for softening leather should on no account be used, for that 
reason. Air-tight storage cases or rooms and a liberal use of naphthalene 
flakes will generally keep moths away from the fur, but it must be inspected 
regularly and thoroughly. Rabbit-skin robes are particularly susceptible 
to moths and need extra care. Should a large collection of fur become 
infected, the whole room should be fumigated, preferably with the mixture 
of ethylene dichloride and carbon tetrachloride. 
Hair 
Hair is very little subject to deterioration and seldom requires treat- 
ment. If it should become dry and brittle, as may happen in old scalp 
locks or on masks, it may be treated with lanoline or vaseline which will 
restore the gloss and reduce brittleness, if used in small doses. It should 
be noted that human hair often turns a reddish brown after a number of 
years and the colour of the hair on a scalp or in a grave is not a certain 
criterion of its original colour. 
In some cases beads are strung on hair, usually horsehair, which has 
become brittle and lost its tensile strength. New hair may be substituted 
in those parts which need repairing and by this means one may secure 
protruding ends long enough to tie in to the solid parts of the specimen. 
Hair is subject to attack by insects but will not be harmed as a rule 
unless little other food is available. 
Horn 
Horn is even less subject to deterioration than is hair or bone and can 
usually be handled freely, requiring little treatment beyond cleaning. 
Soap and warm water will often suffice, but musk-ox horn ladles are often 
thickly coated with hardened grease and oil. Much of this may be removed 
with a small wooden or ivory spatula, and thorough washing with wood 
alcohol or benzine will take off the remainder. This will leave the surface 
somewhat dull, a defect which may be remedied by polishing with a stiff 
brush. Horn which has become warped may be straightened by steaming 
and bending, and repairs are best made with celluloid cement. 
Spoons from the west coast made of mountain goat horn, often with 
elaborately carved handles, need very thorough cleaning, as the crevices 
in the carving and the junction between the bowl and the handle are often 
filled with grease. Wood alcohol or benzine and a stiff, pointed brush will 
remove most of the grease, but care must be taken that any abalone shell 
