204 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. 
Ngevi Island, where, after kindling a fire, we dried our 
clothes and our wetted bodies, and, over a hot potful 
of Liebig, affected to laugh at our late critical position. 
In the morning the world appeared re-born, for the 
sky was a bluish crystal, the shores looked as if fresh 
painted in green, the lake shone like burnished steel, 
the atmosphere seemed created for health. Glowing 
with new life, we emerged out of our wild arbour of 
cane and mangrove to enjoy the glories of a gracious 
Heaven, and the men relieved their grateful breasts by 
chanting loudly and melodiously one of their most 
animating boat-songs. 
As we rowed in this bright mood across the bay of 
Ugamba, we noticed a lofty mount which I should 
judge to be fully 3000 feet above the lake, towards the 
north-east. From the natives of Usamu Island, we 
obtained the name of Marsawa for this the most con- 
spicuous feature of the neighbourhood. After obtaining 
a clear meridian altitude, on a small island between 
Usamu and Namungi, we steered for the latter. The 
art of pleasing was never attempted with such effect as 
at Namungi. Though we had great difficulty in even 
obtaining a hearing, we persisted in the practice of the 
art with all its amusing variations, until our perse- 
verance was finally rewarded. A young fisherman was 
despatched to listen from the shore, but the young 
wretch merely stared at us. We tossed into his canoe 
a bunch of beads, and he understood their signification. 
He shouted out to his fellows on the shore, who were 
burning with curiosity to see closer the strange boat 
and strange crew, amongst whom they saw a man who 
was like unto no man they had ever seen or heard, 
or dreamed of. 
A score of canoes loaded with peaceful, harmless souls 
came towards us, all of whom beyond for beads. When 
we saw that they could be inspired to talk, we suggested 
to them that, in return for food, abundance of beads 
might be obtained. They instantly raced for the banana 
and plantain groves in great excitement. We were so 
close that we could hear the heavy clusters falling under 
