ROUND LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA. 
211 
Eipon Falls. On an uninhabited point of Usoga, near 
the falls, we encamped ; and on the 29 th of March 
crossed the channel, and coasted along Uganda between 
numerous islands, the largest of which are densely 
inhabited. 
At Kiwa Island we rested for the day, and were 
received with the greatest cordiality by the chief, who 
sent messengers to the island of Kerenge, a distance of 
three miles, to purchase bananas and jars of maramba 
wine, for the guest, as he said, of the Kabaka Mtesa. 
As it was the first time for twenty-two days that we 
had lived with natives since leaving Kagehyi we cele- 
brated, as we were in duty bound, our arrival among 
friends. 
The next day, guided and escorted by the chief, we 
entered Ukafu, where we found a tall handsome young 
Mtongoleh in command of the district, before whom the 
chief of Kiwa Island made obeisance as before a great 
lord. The young Mtongoleh, though professing an 
ardent interest in us, and voluble of promises, treated 
us only to barmecide fare after waiting twenty-four 
hours. Perceiving that his courtesies, though suavely 
proffered, failed to satisfy the cravings of our jaded 
stomachs, we left him still protesting enormous admira- 
tion for us, and still volubly assuring us that he was 
preparing grand hospitalities in our honour. 
I was staggered when I understood in its full extent 
the perfect art with which we had been duped. “ Could 
this be Central Africa,” I asked myself, “ wherein we 
find such perfect adepts in the art of deception ? But 
two days ago the savagery of the land was intense 
and real, for every man’s hand was raised in ferocity 
against the stranger. In the land next adjoining we 
find a people polite, agreeable, and professing the 
warmest admiration for the stranger, but as inhospit- 
able as any hotel-keeper in London or New York to a 
penniless guest ! ” 
At a little village in the bay of Buka we discovered 
we were premature in our judgment. The Mtongoleh 
at this place invited us to his village, spread out before 
