40 
successful combination bait: “One part bacon, cut up into small pieces; 
one part of cluster raisins, also cut up small; two parts of oily peanut 
butter; rolled oats sufficient to make the mixture of putty-like consistency.” 
If thoroughly mixed the bait wall keep for years in a tight jar or tin. This 
combination bait is attractive to rodents, shrews, opossums, etc., and 
because of its oily nature will not be washed away by rains. These soft 
mixed baits are usually pressed into the hole in the bait treadle. Some 
baits, such as pieces of meat, fish, or fruit, may need to be tied to the 
treadle with fine thread or wire. They should be tied well back, so that 
the trap will not be sprung too soon. 
LABELLING SPECIMENS 
Specimens should always be fully labelled at the time they are pre- 
pared, as a specimen without an authentic pedigree has very little scientific 
value. It has been said that a good label without a specimen has a certain 
amount of value, but a specimen without a label has almost none. As the 
original label should always be preserved in connection with specimens, no 
matter how many subsequent additions are made, it should be of moderate 
size, never exceeding 3 inches in length and £ inch in width, and neatly and 
legibly written. If possible, use the permanent label of the museum or 
other institution for which the collection is being made. If ink is used for 
labelling, it should be India ink or waterproof carbon ink (such as Higgin’s 
Waterproof Ink or Higgin’s Eternal Ink). Ordinary writing or fountain- 
pen ink or ball point pens should never be used, as labels are very apt to 
become damp or grease-stained; then the ink spreads and the writing 
becomes illegible. The lettering should be done with a fine pen, and 
preferably in print. If waterproof ink is not available, the labels should 
be written with medium hard black pencil (never “indelible” or “copying” 
pencil), and the legend may be later traced in ink. When writing on either 
side of the label, always keep the string to the left; this facilitates its 
reading (See Figure 19). 
If ordinary price-tags are used as labels for skins, care should be 
used to obtain tags w'ith white strings. Many specimens have become badly 
damaged by coloured strings becoming wet and indelibly staining the hair 
or feathers. Heavy manila shipping tags are very good for large, heavy 
specimens. These can bear the full data, but as insurance against the tag 
becoming torn off in shipment, it is well to attach an additional, numbered 
tag of metal, leather, or wood, or to mark the inside of a dry skin with soft 
pencil or India ink. Beware of cloth tags or handle them with caution. 
The writer had the experience of hanging several mountain sheep skins, 
bearing cloth labels, up to dry and of finding that the rain and melting 
snow washed the glossy sizing out of the labels and the legends with it. 
Labels or tags should be firmly tied with a double knot. A half-hitch, 
slip-knot, or granny-knot is not to be depended on. 
The data of small skulls may be written on labels of strong, tough 
paper, with heavy black pencil. The collector’s field number (correspond- 
ing to the number of the skin) and the collector’s initials are usually enough 
if the skin accompanies the skull. The number should be written on both 
sides of the tag, in case one side becomes obliterated, as imperfectly cleaned 
skulls may become soft in damp weather. If the skull is alone, it may be 
well to put the usual complete data on the accompanying label. Some 
