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secrets/' the collector will often have to work out methods for himself. 
This is not entirely unfortunate, as in learning to trap, the collector is 
sure to learn something about the life-habits of the animals sought. This 
book is not primarily a treatise on trapping nor general natural history, 
but a few principles may be mentioned for the benefit of the beginner. 
For catching the larger mammals appropriate sizes of standard steel 
traps may be obtained from hardware dealers or trappers’ outfitters almost 
anywhere in Canada. Traps for the larger mammals may be picked for a 
particular use with much more confidence than would naturally be sup- 
posed. The trapper seldom catches a large mammal unless he makes a 
special “set” for it in the right place. Flying squirrels and weasels often 
spring marten traps in the woods, and sometimes Canada jays, ravens, and 
snowy owls will cause trouble. Dogs and cats may also interfere near 
settlements, but such impediments are not usually serious. 
The sizes ordinarily used are No. 0 for catching rats, gophers, and 
weasels; No. 1 for muskrat, mink, and marten; No. 1^ for fisher, raccoon, 
and skunks; No. 2 for fox, wildcat, oppossum, etc.; No. for otter, beaver; 
No. 3 for lynx, coyote, badger, etc.; No. 4 for wolf, wolverine, etc. Sizes 
from No. 3 up are generally made with double springs, and smaller sizes 
with single springs. The larger traps have wider spread of jaws and stiff er 
springs. A size or two larger or smaller than the ones mentioned are 
frequently used. A wider jaw spread than usual is necessary for animals 
with large feet, and if the animal is a strong fighter, like the wolverine, 
a wide- jawed trap with single spring may not be strong enough. A heavier 
trap than is needed to hold the animal may injure it unnecessarily and is 
a dead weight to pack around. 
Steel traps are anchored by chains, and sometimes additional strong 
wire is needed. The ring at the end of the trap-chain may be used for 
nailing or stapling the trap to a tree, log, or clog, or the trap may be 
fastened by driving a stake through the ring into the ground. A strong 
stick may be thrust through the ring and buried in the ground or 
■weighted down with stones, or in the north, buried in a trench in the snow. 
Snow' is tramped down on the stick, and after an hour or so, when the 
snow crystals have set and frozen together, the stick is held solidly and 
will have to be chopped loose. A bunch of stout switches will answer as 
well as a stick and when frozen down will hold a strong wolverine fast. 
For wolf or bear, where the trap can not be anchored strongly enough to 
prevent the animal from pulling the trap loose, the trap is fastened to a 
clog, a piece of log, or stump, which becomes entangled in the brush as 
the animal drags it along. 
Most fur-bearing mammals are taken with a “bait-set”, the trap 
being carefully concealed with leaves, moss, dust, or snow, and the 
animal is attracted to the vicinity by some kind of bait or scent. Or the 
trap may be concealed in a path or runway used by the animal, commonly 
called a “blind-set.” If possible the trap should be set so that the catch 
or “dog” of the bait-pan is on the side opposite to the approaching 
animal, as otherwise it may step on the catch and be thrown back out of 
reach of the jaws. In all cases the pan should be adjusted so that it will 
trip freely, and the trapper should spring it several time to be sure it is 
going to work properly. 
