71 
growth is nearly complete, a bony ring or burr is deposited around the base 
of the antler, gradually shutting off the blood vessels, so that the velvet 
skin dries up and is rubbed off in autumn. 
Deer antlers that have nearly reached full size will usually dry with- 
out decomposition or shrinkage if hung up. If blood and serum collect and 
bulge at the tips of the prongs, slit these at the ends, drain out the liquid, 
and rub in a little alum or salt. If there is any further sign of spoiling, 
slit the velvet on the under side, loosen it to let in air, and apply preserva- 
tives. 
Deer specimens in early summer are difficult to handle, as the old hair 
is very loose and falls off in bunches, and the new antlers are very soft and 
pulpy and quickly become offensive. However, such specimens must some- 
times be collected to make an ecologically correct summer habitat group. 
When the antlers are very young and knobby, in the soft velvet stage, they 
may be painted with arsenic water and formalin to keep off flies, and 
they will dry in time, but will be shrivelled. 
The core of the young, growing antler is a spongy, vascular tissue, 
and if the specimen is to be mounted, the antler may be cut or sawn off 
close to the head, but first the distance between tips should be measured, 
so they may be replaced at the proper angle. Split the velvet on the under 
side and skin it off; then salt down both velvet skin and antler core to 
serve as a model later. Rowley (1925) recommends puncturing the tips 
of the antlers with a long, flat awl, driving in wires, and washing and irrigat- 
ing the inside of the antler several times a day for a week with the 
following solution: 
Water, 1 quart Alum, 1 pound 
Glycerine, 2 quarts White arsenic, 1 pound 
Salt, 1 pound Formalin, 1 pint 
After pickling, rinse off with warm, soapy water, and paint with hide 
poison (See page 74) or strong arsenic water. If a number of pairs of 
fresh velvet antlers are to be preserved, they may be sawn off and immersed 
in the pickle. The glycerine in the solution prevents the antler from 
shrivelling and gives it a natural appearance. 
Packing Large Horned Heads , Packing a skull with large spreading 
horns or antlers is often a serious problem. The skull, prongs, and points 
may be wrapped with masses of excelsior, grass, or straw, bound on firmly, 
and wrapped outside with burlap stitched in place. A crate built to the 
proper size is lighter than a box, but elk (wapiti) heads will need to be 
boxed tightly in transit as long as elk tusks have a market value for watch 
fobs, etc. Some collectors save space by dividing a skull vertically down 
the median line with a fine saw, leaving one antler on each section. This 
method economizes room to some extent, but is usually disastrous to maxil- 
lary bones, nasals, and bones of the lower part of the skull. If the head 
must be reduced in size, it is much better to saw off each antler, after 
measuring and recording distances between points. Label each antler and 
the skull and pack carefully. If necessary the antlers may be reset later 
at the proper angle, by boring holes for iron rods into the skull and base 
of each antler. The lower jaw should be wrapped very carefully to avoid 
breaking the incisor teeth. 
