«JH>VI0«V UWiAtflNOB IN »k« ClU/l'Mith 
18 
side or end piooes close up against A , and 
of course the other edge at C will be 
straitened, beveled, and the piece brought 
to an equal and proper width at one op- 
eration, the spring stop F being pressed 
down meanwhile; we now turn the board 
over and let the beveled edge rest against 
this stop, which allows the saw to cut ott 
on the same bevel a strip 15 inches wide. 
These strips have one square edge which 
fits in the §x} rabbet in the cover, and the 
other edge is on a bevel just to fit the 
bevel of the top edge of the hive, for it was 
sawed off from it. To make the bevel 
around tne top edge of the cover, stand 
our little machine on the side A, with 0 
straight up; plnco tho board for cover 
after it is rabbeted, ngainst 11 and E, with 
the corner of A in ono of the rabbets; 
set the gunge sufficiently near for the saw 
to bevel the edge back about j of an inch; 
when you have thus beveled the top on 
each of its four sides, our hives are finish- 
ed except the rabbet to hold the frames in 
the end pieces, and we now make them 
t}xl inch instead of l j as given in oftr 
circular. We should prefer 1.1 inches as it 
makes more room for the quilt, but in that 
ease the distance between the frames of 
the upper and lower story is rather too 
much, although we have for several years 
used two hives in which the space is 14 
inches with no bad results; energetic 
“Hybrids” even, preferring to make comb 
in the frames and only filling this space 
when they were “out of a job otherwise, 
and in very hot weather we have thought 
that this air space much assisted ventila- 
tion. If we use 12 inch lumber every 
fraction of an inch in width must be eco- 
nomized. 
We make the Gallup hive in this way of 
It inch lumber, cutting ott lengths lor 
cover and sides exactly 19J inches, for 
ends 13 inches, and making our rabbets 
in side pieces instead of ends. Allowing 
for saw cuts we only require about 7j feet 
in length by 14 inches in width, or 84 feet 
of lumber ior the hive complete ; costing 
not to exceed 22cts. per hive when bought 
in quantities, and the amount is just about 
the same for the hive we use. 
“Mr. Novice why do you keep calling a 
body and cover, without any bottom board 
a hive ; if two of them are required to 
make a complete luve why not call it a 
$2.00 hive at once instead of 'the dollar 
hive?’ And again we are afraid your 
readers would hardly call a hive without 
frames, what is generally understood by 
the term ‘bee hive.’ Let us see : 
A two story hive is $2.00 
And 20 frames such as we use at Gc 1.20 
Quilt 
floor step 0.10 
A ml we have expense of hive com- 
plete .$3.0.1 
Instead of your modest 22 cts. that you 
were so complacent about when we inter- 
rupted you.” 
“There now! Do you see how much 
mischief you have made ? It, will take us 
•so long to unravel your figures, ns above, 
that wo shall get no room at all for the 
Windmill,’ and for ‘April,’ we shall be 
obliged to go over transferring, and for 
‘June’ " 
“Please don’t borrow trouble about June, 
for its now only Feb. lltli, but tell us how 
to get from 22 cts. to $3.55.” 
"Well, all right; now just see if we can’t 
make a good hive for a dollar." If the 
lumber only cost 22 cts., the hives can cer- 
tainly be cut up and nailed for 50 cts. 
more, and frames such as are ordinarily 
used do not cost over 2 cts. each, making 
02 cts. ; in place of quilts something can 
be made of old carpeting, coffee sacks, or 
old clothing for the remaining 8 cts. ; and 
most bee keepers that we have visited 
place their hive on some kind of a board, 
bench, stand, or platform, in which ease 
no bottom is absolutely necessary, es- 
pecially in warm weather, and box hives 
very seldom have any, and now as we 
have shown how a very durable and most 
convenient hive can lie made for $1.00, we 
will add that we should prefer to throw all 
the old boards, clothes, and benches away 
and make two of the “dollar” hives for 
each colony. Use the cover of one for a 
bottom board for the one that contains the 
bees, and all is complete during tho honey 
season ; at other times of the year keep 
your spare combs set away in the spare 
bodies, piled up on each other, and the 
workmanship should be such that they fit 
on each other close enough to exclude 
not only mice but ants and moth millers. 
In the swarming season these hives with- 
out a bottom answer temporarily, very 
well; see what Adam Grim says on page 
213, Yol. G, American lire Journal. 
Our idea is that we want the fewest 
possible implements, consistent in an 
apiary, and want those ns light as possi- 
ble and made with no superfluous lumber 
or metals. In nailing the hive just men- 
tioned, nail the corners well, and drive 
the nails as near the edges of the boards 
as can be done without splitting. Use 
seven-penny nails to go through the whole 
thickness of the boards and "tours " to go 
through where the rabbet leaves only 4 
inch. Wc use four nails of each size for 
each joint, and drive them ns near to- 
gether as we can without striking where 
they cross each other. Make up your 
mind that you will learn to drive nails 
just where they should be, and don’t let 
their points ever show themselves by run- 
ning out of the wood. Make your hives 
such that they will never come apart or 
loose if used yearly for a lifetime, even if 
they have no stationary top or bottom. 
Paint them as soon ns done with the 
Averill chemical paint, (white, )[and keep 
than painted. We should never use any 
thing but pine lumber after what experience 
we have had with other kinds. 
Wi: are just advised of the sad intelli- 
gence of the death of Mrs. Langstroth. 
