4 
“novice’s” gleanings in bee culture. 
allow the three prongs of an apple-parer 
to pass into them snugly. 
The pivot may be pushed in its 
place in the top of our revolving frame 
but not soldered until we have it adjusted 
to the proper length. 
Push in the bottom pivot until the ma- 
chine will revolve and allow the ends of 
your Langstroth frame to clear the bot- 
tom about an inch. This will bring 
the other end above the top edge of the 
can about %-inch or a little more, so we 
must have our arm to support the center, 
raised enough to clear it. We would not 
have the can higher because it would 
necessitate raising the combs higher to 
remove them, nor would we have a bar 
clear across the top, for it would inter- 
fere with the rapid handling of the combs 
and we would have no greater depth at 
the bottom of the can, for we wish to 
work with it raised enough to run the 
honey directly from a tube, (make it 
large), level with the bottom into the 
bung of a barrel. 
We use the gearing of an apple-parer, 
removing all except the main wheel and 
crank, small wheel with fork, and bear- 
ings of both. The parer should be of the 
kinds that has boaring to both wheels par- 
allel, and not those with bevel gearing. 
The cast iron that holds the whoels is to be 
soldered securely to, or rather inside of a 
tin tube 2x% inside measure, and per- 
haps seven inches long, in such a way as 
to allow the wheels to lie on the flat side 
of the tube and to work freely, the 
smaller one close to one end. This tube 
is to slide as tight as it can be pushed 
into another similar one 5 'A inches long, 
aud the latter is to be soldered fast to the 
top edge of the can on the opposite side 
from where the honey runs out; and this 
tube must be previously bent at a dis- 
tance of about inches from the point 
of attachment to allow the projection on 
the comb frame to swing under it. To 
make those tubes quickly and very 
strong, make them in two pieces, which 
aro like shallow boxes without ends be- 
fore one is inverted and pushed into the 
other. Thus you see the sides are 
double and when soldered have great 
strength. The two pieces for the bent 
one should have the sides, after turning 
them up square in a folder, cut down to 
the bottom where the angle is to be 
made, so that in bending the top those 
corners will overlap, and, when soldered, 
are secure at the desired angle and can 
then be fitted over the other piece and 
the whole soldered strong. 
This arm will not be firm enough with 
out bracing and so we must have a piece 
of tin fitted to extend from the bend in 
the arm down inside of the can about six 
inches, broad enough to extend also four 
inches each side, tapering to a rounded 
point at the lower end something like tho 
brace to a coffee pot spout. 
Your tinsmith will probably “grumble” 
more at this brace than at all the rest, 
but never mind, for it is all done now, 
when we fix a little ring on the under 
side of the movable tube to snap over a 
little knob of Bolder on the other to pre- 
vent it drawing out, only when we wish 
to remove the inside work, and our ac- 
count stands for the aftornoon’s work 
thus : . ..... i . 
Six sheets of tin used, and one 
extra for mistake in work atl6c$1.05 
Iron around top of can 20 
Parer, 75 
Solder, 15 
Xdayswork, 1.00 
?:1.15 
Inside work, 1.80 
$1.95 
“ Now Mr Novice, that’s really too bad 
if vou leave your description in that way. 
. Why don’t you tell thorn how to make a 
sloping bottom to tho can, and molasses 
gate, etc., just as the one you have just 
finished is made ? And you have used 
heavier tin, too; and what are your pu- 
pils to do when the barrel gets lull as it 
often used to ; and how are we women to 
keep tho implement clean and free from 
dust and flies, etc , if a half inch of honey 
is always standing in it ? ” 
“There! there!”No more at once please. 
First, it will cost more than $5.00. Second, 
we can’t oxplain such a bottom. Third, a 
molasses gate costs 75 cents. Fourth, Our 
original extractor (that you wished 
back so many times after we sold it, 
and tried to use Peabody’s and Gray it 
Winders’) was made of roofing tin, with 
a flat bottom, and is good yet. Fifth, 
cork up the tube when tho barrel is 
full, of course. Corks cost but one cent. 
Sixth, we can’t remember sixth, and no 
wonder either.” 
“ Nevor mind s’xth. The machine that 
you have just finished, right hero bosido 
us, would be cheaper at $10.00 than tho 
flat bottom can and " corks ” at $5.00. A 
nice thing your “ cork” would bo to leave 
around somewhere as you always do un- 
til needed, and then have to hunt for it, 
barrel running over meanwhile. You 
may do so if you wish, but women don’t 
work that way.” 
“Tell your readers to have the bottom 
made like an inverted tin cover, lowest 
in the centre, and to have an open chan- 
nel leading from the centre on a gentle 
slope to the faucet, and a piece of tinned 
wire cloth over this channel, will strain 
out bees, etc. But it will not stand up 
unless a tin hoop is made to go around 
tho lower end, reaching down as low as 
the mouth of the gate.” 
“ To be sure and another heavy wire 
is needed around the bottom of this hoop 
for it to rest on, and so that some screws 
can be inserted through the tin justabove 
it to fasten it firmly to the platlorm or 
bench on which it is worked.” 
Now kind readers, each one of you can 
decide whether the $5.00 style of the can, 
(which answers perfectly the purpose in- 
tended, )will be best, all things considered, 
or the more expensive form. 
We have made one that allows the 
frame to be roversed inside of the ma- 
chine, but as it is heavier and not so sim- 
ple, we cannot really think it an advan- 
tage at present. 
We have also one that has a close-fit- 
ting tin cover over tho top, but alter 
having tried both ways, we really think 
we prefer a round piece of white cloth to 
spread over it when not in use. A rub- 
ber cord run in the hem will be handier 
than tying on a string. 
