the sea: the garrison consisted of five hundred Europeans, and 
some Malay troops from their more eastern possessions; the com- 
manding officer had only the rank of major, and the civil governor 
was styled commodore. 
I have occasionally resided there several weeks, when transact- 
ing business for the India Company: it was a place of great trade, 
and presented a striking contrast to Goa; where an empty harbour, 
forsaken houses, and mouldering walls, indicated its fallen state, and 
proved the wretched condition of a settlement destined from its 
advantageous situation to be a grand emporium: at Cochin, a har- 
bour filled with ships, streets crowded with merchants, and ware- 
houses stored with goods from every part of Asia and Europe, marked 
the industry, the commerce, and the wealth of the inhabitants. 
The phlegmatic and formal character of the native Hollander 
generall}’’ accompanies him to other climates; but at Cochin, a 
constant intercourse with strangers had effected a pleasing change. 
I constantly received the kindest attentions from the governor and 
principal inhabitants; their tables were furnished with hospitality, 
and graced with politeness; their houses and gardens displayed 
the national cleanliness and neatness. Provisions of all kinds 
abounded; in the rainy season, when no ships frequent the port, 
a turkey cost only half a rupee; fowls and ducks in proportion: 
the beef, though small, was well-flavoured, and very cheap ; as 
were fruit, vegetables, and other refreshments for the numerous 
vessels which touch there in the fair season. Europeans and na- 
tives find the water unwholesome; drinking it frequently causes 
that disagreeable disorder called the Cochin-leg, or elephantiasis, 
which is deemed incurable: it is the same as the lepra araburn. 
