TEA TREE. 
157 
finest and most celebrated tea of Japan is that 
which grows near Ud-si , a small village situated 
close to the sea, and not far distant from Meaco. 
In the district of this village is a delightful moun- 
tain, having the same name, the climate of which 
is said to be extremely favourable to the culture of 
tea ; it is therefore enclosed by a hedge, and sur- 
rounded with wide ditches, which prevent all access 
to it. The tea shrubs that grow on this mountain are 
planted in regular order, and are divided by dif- 
ferent avenues and alleys. The care of this place 
is intrusted to people who are ordered to guard the 
leaves from dust, and to defend them from the in- 
clemency of the weather. The labourers who are 
appointed to collect the tea, abstain from every 
kind of gross food for some weeks before they begin, 
that their breath and perspiration may not in the 
least inj ure the leaves. They gather them with the 
most scrupulous nicety, and never touch them but 
with very fine gloves. When this choice tea has 
undergone the process necessary for its preparation, 
it is escorted by the superintendent of the mountain 
and a strong guard, to the emperor’s court, and re- 
served for the use of the imperial family. 
The Vou-y tcha tea, which is known in Europe 
by the name of Bohea, is considered as lighter, 
sweeter, and of a more delicate taste than the Song- 
lo. The second sort of it, w ? hich is composed of 
older leaves, is sold in common with other teas; and 
the third, which consists of leaves that have been 
suffered to remain on the tree till they have attained 
