TWO DIANAS IN SOMALILAND 23 
wraps. The others lent me theirs too, telling me I 
should come below, as it was going to be “a dirty 
night, 55 whatever that might mean. It seemed a never- 
ending one, and my thankfulness cannot be described 
when, as the dawn broke, I saw land — Somaliland. We 
made the coast miles below Berber a, which is really 
what one might have expected. However, it was a 
matter of such moment to me that we made it at last 
that I was not disposed to quibble we had not arrived 
somewhere else. 
I managed to pull myself together sufficiently to see 
the Golis Range. The others negotiated breakfast. 
They brought me some tea, made of some of the bilge 
water I think, and I did not fancy it. Then came 
Berbera Harbour, with a lighthouse to mark the 
entrance ; next Berbera itself, which was a place I was 
as intensely glad to be in as I afterwards was to leave 
it. I should never have believed there were so many 
flies in the whole world had I not seen them with 
mine own eyes. In fact, my first impression of Ber- 
bera may be summed up in the word 4 4 flies. 55 The 
town seemed to be in two sections, native and Euro- 
pean, the former composed of typical Arab houses and 
numerous huts of primitive and poverty-stricken ap- 
pearance. The European quarter has large well-built 
one-storied houses, flat-roofed ; and the harbour looked 
imposing, and accommodates quite large ships. 
Submerged in the shimmering ether we could dis- 
cern, through the parting of the ways of the Maritime 
Range, the magnificent Golis, about thirty-five miles 
inland from Berbera as the crow flies, 
