204 
THROUGH SOMALILAND AND ABYSSINIA chap. 
would have been drowned bad we not gone to bis assistance. 
After tbe storm had passed we bad hard work to reach the top 
of the highest ground in the neighbourhood, a mile from where 
we had been caught, the camels slipping at every step on the 
sloping surfaces of soft red clay. It was the worst storm I have 
ever experienced, accompanied by constant thunder and vivid 
lightning. Lions roared in some bush round our camp at night, 
but luckily did not attack our horses ; for the fuel on the spot 
being soaked, and it being too dark to send out to search for any, 
we could only make a small fire with a scanty supply which my 
cook Suleiman had wrapped in a waterproof sheet and put on a 
camel just as the storm came on, for the preparation of my 
evening meal. 
Next day, the 3rd May, we made a long march and reached 
Gulla. A lion roared at night, but he was on the farther side 
of a precipitous watercourse which he could not pass without 
going a great distance round ; so he did not disturb my camp 
otherwise than by the grand music of his voice, which on the 
clear nights after heavy rain can be heard for miles. 
On 4th May, crossing a beautiful stream called Samani at 
Bal Balaad, we marched to the Sheikh’s karia. JAma Deria, 
who had been with us so far, now left. As I rode up to Abdul 
K&der’s karia I was met by a dignified old man, who turned out 
to be the Sheikh himself ; I respectfully dismounted from the 
camel and shook hands, and the Sheikh, by way of emphasising 
the welcome, fumbled at the brim of my hat with outstretched 
hands to bless me, as is the custom, by touching my forehead 
and mumbling a few words of the Koran over me. Asking his 
permission through the interpreter, I ordered the men to pitch 
camp among the karias of the AnAden. I was received with 
enthusiasm by the Sheikh’s people, who are his own clan of the 
ArrAden ; his karias were also full of mullahs from every tribe. 
He gave me some sheep, and a camel worth twenty-five dollars, 
to be killed for my men, and a fat calf for myself. Lines of 
women came carrying large hdns decked with white beads and 
full of camel’s milk ; and soon a long row of these vessels was 
set up at my tent door. In return I gave white shirting and 
red shawls, which were afterwards picked to pieces to make 
tassels for the saddlery. To the Sheikh’s principal wife I gave 
a red and blue tartan-patterned tobe and a looking-glass, and to 
the other women beads. As the Sheikh, supported by a thick 
stick and two stalwart sons, hobbled to my tent to pay a formal 
