270 THROUGH SOMALILAND AND ABYSSINIA 
CHAP. 
of a deep, precipitous gorge near Gildessa, abounding in large fig- 
trees, and nearly every other variety of Somali tree, shrub, flower, 
and butterfly. Higher up the pass were beautiful turf-covered 
uplands, first steep and rounded, then stretching away in undu- 
lating meadows ; and as these plains became more broken, we 
passed through dark green coffee-gardens, bounded by Euphorbia 
hedges and wild-rosebushes, till finally there appeared before us 
the white minarets and the broad, compact mass of flat, mud- 
coloured roofs of the city of Harar on its central hill. On all 
sides were rounded hills, commanding the city from a distance 
of about a mile ; while Gara Mulata to the south, and flat- 
topped Kondura to the east, rose in deep blue to a great height 
at a more remote distance. 
We were soon to be met by R4s Makunan, Menelik’s nephew. 
The world had dealt kindly with him since my visit four years 
before ; and by the siege of Makalle Fort, and the capture of the 
Italians in January 1896, he had considerably added to his fame 
as a soldier and statesman. Makunan sent quite an army to 
meet us. This escort appeared at Eghu, near the opening into 
the green plains, a day’s march from Harar, and formed a pro- 
cession, marching alongside of us during the whole of our day’s 
journey. The order of the day was full dress, gold or silver- 
mounted black -buffalo shields, lion -skin, black sheepskin, or 
purple velvet capes, and modern rifles, some inlaid with gold or 
silver. The restive little horses carried silver discs spread in 
rows over their equipment. Harmonious and original in rich 
colouring, barbaric and mediaeval in character, it was a sight 
which probably no other army than the Abyssinian can still show. 
The prevailing hue of the crowd was white, dashed with innu- 
merable points of bright colour, where a broad stripe of crimson 
ran diagonally over the white woollen shamma of each soldier. 
The white cotton drawers, tight at the knee, seemed nearly 
universal ; and many wore warm, brown hooded blankets of 
goats’ hair. 
In front, long brass trumpets blared out at intervals, echoing 
their single note through the hills, while in continual soft cadence 
there sounded a tune of four flute-notes. This music, in conjunc- 
tion with the wild blaze of colour on the green turf -slopes, 
produced an effect charming alike to eye and ear. 
Perhaps our own appearance was equally interesting to the 
Abyssinians. The procession was headed by the envoy riding 
a strong and handsome mule — a gift from R4s Makunan — in 
