fungous pests, annual fertilizing (not absolutely necessary, but 
usually desirable), and the replanting of some of the more ram- 
pant growers every two or three years. 
Frequent use of the hoe is the best method of keeping down 
weeds. Some will grow in among the clumps of plants, and 
these must be removed by hand. 
An efficient method of preventing much of the loss of moist- 
ure from the soil by evaporation is to stir the surface with a hoe 
or rake after every rain. This should not be done when the soil 
is so wet as to be sticky. A layer of partly decayed manure, two 
or three inches thick, over the surface of the border is beneficial, 
as it not only prevents loss of moisture, but provides a source of 
nutriment for the plant roots. When manure is unavailable, or 
if there are objections on the score of appearances, partly de- 
cayed leaves or even grass clippings may be used as a mulch. 
Most gardeners, both amateur and professional, realize the 
necessity of thinning out the young seedlings in the vegetable 
row when they come up too thickly. Not so many are aware of 
the advantages to be gained by thinning the crowded growths of 
some of the hardy perennials. Such plants as phlox and del- 
phinum produce larger and better spikes, or trusses of bloom, 
if the young growths are thinned when they are about two inches 
in length. This gives the remaining shoots an opportunity to 
attain their full development. These plants and many others of 
a similar nature produce so many shoots if left to themselves 
that there is a struggle for existence between the stems of indi- 
vidual plants. This is not so very serious if food and moisture 
are abundant, but if the opposite is true, it results in w T eak and 
spindling shoots and an inferior display of bloom. In a group of 
garden phlox, supposing them to be planted a foot apart each 
way, three shoots from each plant should be made to fill the 
allotted space. 
Much could be written with reference to the proper way of 
giving support to plants that need assistance to maintain thtm- 
selves in a state of uprightness and integrity. In some gardens 
that are fully exposed to strong winds, the taller plants are 
almost sure to be toppled over unless they are helped in some 
way. Far too often the remedy applied, instead of improving 
matters, does exactly the opposite. A group of shoots con- 
stricted in the middle by a string passed around them and 
fastened to a broomstick stuck at one side, does not present a 
picture that will satisfy any one having even the rudiments of 
artistic taste. Better far to let the plants blow over— they will at 
least look natural. The point to remember when staking and 
tying plants is that they must always be supported in such away 
