10 
IN FORBIDDEN SEAS 
Such indications are the roaring of the sea-lions 
on their rookeries,* and their smell (which is often 
wafted off to the ship even if the animals are quiet), 
the sulphurous fumes from the volcanoes, the cries 
of the kittiwake gulls on certain points and cliffs, 
the flights of thousands of guillemots off others, and 
the presence of flocks of auks, puffins, fulmars, and 
other sea-birds, which are known to frequent certain 
localities or to be peculiar to certain islands. The 
presence of well-known tide-rips and many other 
peculiarities also serve to help the experienced man 
in determining the whereabouts of his vessel, and 
enable him to reach his destination. 
I have often been amused at the state of trepi¬ 
dation old deep-water sailors have fallen into when, 
having shipped on board a hunting-vessel as mate 
or shipkeeper, they have visited the Kuril Islands 
for the first time, and seen the apparently reckless 
navigation of the vessel during thick fogs, stormy 
weather, and dark nights. I call to mind one case 
in particular. One evening, while lying in Roko 
Bay, near the south-west end of Yetorup, it came on 
to blow from the south-east. We had to get under 
way, as we were on a lee shore; but being desirous 
of holding on to the land, we resolved to beat out, 
run round the south-west end of the island, through 
the strait, and anchor under the lee of the land on 
the Okotsk side of the island, at a place called by the 
hunters “ The Stake.” By the time we had beaten 
out of the bay and could clear the point, it was 
blowing so hard that the sails had to be double- 
reefed. On clearing the south-west point the wind 
* The sea-lions, like the fur-seals, have their regular haunts, 
to which they return year after year. 
