Seed-Time and Harvest. 
The good gardener has almost a continu¬ 
ous seed-time and a continuous harvest. 
What with sowing under glass and in open 
ground, with propagating by cuttings and 
layers, and division of roots, and by bud¬ 
ding and grafting, his seed-time lasts the 
year round, so, also, is there no month 
when he may not cull a boquet or furnish 
the table with fruit, or vegetable or a salad 
plant. At this time he thinks of sowing 
seeds of some beautiful perennials that, in 
the following season, will amply repay 
for the forethought and attention; such as 
Antirrhinums and Pansies, Chinese Pinks, 
Sweet Williams, Lychnis, Aquilegias, Hol¬ 
lyhocks, Sweet Pockets, and others. The 
seeds of all these may be sown this month 
in a cold-frame, or in some warm sheltered 
spot in the open ground; they will soon ger¬ 
minate and make healthy little plants that 
may be carried through the winter with a 
slight protection. In spring they will be 
ready to transplant, and will start early 
and soon become fine flowering stock. 
When the severe weather comes, late in 
fall some leaves can be placed in between 
the rows of plants, and for those in frames 
this will be sufficient protection. Those in 
the open ground can be treated in the same 
way, and, in addition, have some branches 
laid over the plants, and leaves covered 
over them. The branches will hold the 
leaves up from the plants and prevent their 
getting smothered. 
In the same way Lettuce and Cabbage 
seed may be sown and wintered over ready 
for use at the earliest oppornity in spring. 
In the open garden, after having well 
prepared the ground by deep tillage and a 
generous coat of manure and thorough pul¬ 
verizing, Spinach seed may be sown in rows 
about fifteen inches apart. Plenty of seed 
should be sown, so as to be sure of full 
rows. When the young plants are well up 
and growing, they can be thinned out, so 
that they will stand about eight inches 
apart; the ground should be frequently hoed 
and kept clean. When the coldest weather 
is at hand brush should be placed over the 
plants, and then these covered with leaves 
for protection it the same manner already 
advised for Cabbage and Lettuce. 
It is much better to prepare and plant 
beds of Asparagus in the fall than in the 
spring, as the growth is much stronger the 
next season. And this remark also applies 
to most hardy plants, such as ornamental 
vines and shrubs, Roses, Clematis, Virginia 
Creeper, Trumpetvine, and others; also, 
Raspberry, Strawberry and Blackberry 
plants, and Grape-vines, Currant and 
Gooseberry bushes. Any of these, after 
planting, can be protected by a covering 
of leaves so effectually that the frost can¬ 
not throw them out of the ground or in 
any way injure them. 
By all means, do all the work in the fall 
that can be as well done, and so relieve as 
much as possible the burden of spring-time, 
which is always too great. Vick's Magazine. 
How to Euclier the Borers. 
Ten years or more ago I tried use of pa- 
ped bands and gas tar, in various forms, on 
my peach trees, and when carefully applied 
it was effective in excluding borers, but for 
the past seven or eight years I have practic¬ 
ed a much more excellent way, and I know 
other fruit growers who have done the 
same, and would not think of going back 
to the old methods. It is simply using 
carbolic acid, which is the essence or spirit 
of gas tar, and is easily made to combine 
with water by adding soap, while the tar 
itself will n6t combine, and is far less safe 
and cleanly in its application. My rule for 
preventing borers is to get a pint of crude 
carbolic acid, costing twenty five cents and 
is sufficient for twenty gallons of the wash. 
Take a tight barrel and put in four or five 
gallons of soft soap, with as much hot 
water to thin it, then stir in the pint of car¬ 
bolic acid, and let it stand over night, or 
longer, to combine. Now add twelve gal¬ 
lons of rain water and stir well; then apply 
to the base of the tree with a short broom 
or old paint brush, taking pains to wet in¬ 
side of all crevices. This will prevent both 
peach and apple borers. It should be ap¬ 
plied the latter part of June or early in July, 
