14 
Answers to Correspondents . 
Tecumseh, Mich., March, 18, 1882. 
Isaac F. Tiilinghast, 
Dea* 4 Sir. Please tell me 
through “Seed Time and Harvest for April 
what time to sow peas for seed so that I may es¬ 
cape the “Bug,” a .d much oblige, 
You<*s Truly, 
E. J. Hollister, Market Gardener. 
We grow but few <>f our own seed peas here. 
If you sow them late enough to escape the weevil 
they are sure to mildew and produce very few. 
If any one can give a preventive of pea and bean 
weevils they should have a hat passed and load¬ 
ed down with gdd dollars. If psas were kept 
in tight bags until two years old before being 
planted no live bugs would be planted, with 
them. United co-operative effort will be neces¬ 
sary to exterminate them. 
Do you know any cure for club foot in cab¬ 
bage. Will you have Wakefield plants ready 
for early planting. What is the price of your 
Vegetable Manual. 
E. T. Wyman, Fredonia, N. Y. 
We have never been troubled with “club fool” 
either in our extensive plant beds or in the field. 
We have always taken the precaution to grow 
on new land each year. Our ideas of the cause 
and prevention of this malady are fully given in 
our practical little“Mauuel of Vegetable Plants,” 
which we will mail to any address for forty 
cents. 
Kirkesville, Ohio, May 16th, 1882. 
Mr. Tiilinghast, 
Dear Sir. The potatoes you 
sent me came all right. They were very nice 
and solid and look as though they were just 
taken out of the ground. Would like to know 
how you manage to keep them so well through 
the winter. We have them all planted and hope 
they will prove to be as good as they look. 
With many thanks, 
I Remain, Yours Respectfully, 
J. L. Rodgers. 
We dig potatoes in September and place them 
as soon as dry in small bins or barrels in the 
cellar. There is a great difference in cellars 
about keeping potatoes. It should be dry, coo 
and well ventilated. 
Laurel, Maryland, January 13th, 1882. 
Mr. Tiilinghast, 
Dear Sir. I have decided 
to accept your kind offer made in Farm Journal 
but before sending you an order, I, being an 
amateur, would be greatly indebted if you would 
answer the following “caobage” questions: 
1 How much seed of Jersey Wakefield for one 
and one-half acres. 2 When to sow in latitude 
eighteen miles northeast of Washington, where I 
live. Whether in beds or otherwise. 3 Will land 
clayey on which clover has fallen one season) 
produce good early cabbage without manure. 
4 How Tr aoy plants to the acre. 5 Can you 
supply Henderson’s Early Summer. Would it 
be advisable to have it follow Wakefield. 6 For 
how much will you supply me seed enough for 
oue and one-half acres Please answer and you 
will do me an inestimable favor. 
Very Respectfully Yours, 
E. H. D. 
1 Early Jersey Wakefield should be set three 
by one and one-half feet at which distance 9680 
plants will be required to set an acre. Good 
fresh seeds will produce 2500 strong plants to the 
ounce, so that one- uarter of a pound to the acre 
will be needed. 2 We should say by March 1st 
at latest, or six weeks before the weather will 
allow them to be put out in fields. 3 There is 
but little land in this country which is so rich 
that it will not pay to manure heavily for a crop 
of cabbage. 4 Answered above. 5 Yes. Just 
the thing' 6 See Price List. 
Will you answer through “Seed-Time and 
Harvest” the following questions. The first 
one perhaps is not exactly in your line but you 
may be able to settle a doubt in that direction. 
1 Is it better to trim up a foiest of pine when 
the branches are small or to let them grow till 
they die away. Which way will make the lum¬ 
ber freest from knots. 2 Will seeds raised in the 
latitude of Philadelphia, be as good to raise early 
vegetables from in New England, as that grown 
in Rochester and Detroit. 3 Is it a good plan to 
f ed pumpkin and sunflower se*d to laying hens, 
or what is the particular property of them as 
feed for fowls. 4 Will the seeds of different 
kinds of squashes or of squashes and melons mix 
the first year sufficiently to injure the fruit for 
eating or only the seed for future planting. 
1 Who can answer this. We cannot. 2 We 
presume that no great difference would be seen 
in the product for a single year, but undoubtedly 
in the long run the farther north they are grown 
the earlier the produce will become. But buy¬ 
ing seeds in a certain locality does not prove that 
they were grown there. For instance our flow¬ 
er seeds are mainly grown in France. Our 
onion seeds in Connecticut, some of our cabbage 
seeds on Long Island, and some in Washington 
Territory. Various other things come to us from 
England, Germany and other parts of the world. 
On. the other hand we frequently send seeds of 
different kinds to dealers in New York, Phila¬ 
delphia, Marblehead, Detroit, Boston, Rochester 
and other cities. 3 Will those who have tried 
it please answer. 4 We think not, but if seeds 
are saved from such and planted the mixture will 
show the second year. 
