320 
THE VOYAGE OF THE VEGA. 
[chap. 
with the tea sweetmeats are brought in, of which, however, some 
cannot be relished by Europeans. The brazier forms the most 
important household article of the Japanese. Braziers are very 
variable in size and shape, but are often made in an exceedingly 
beautiful and tasteful way, of cast-iron or bronze, with gilding 
and raised figures. Often enough, however, they consist only of 
a clay crock. The Japanese are very skilful in keeping up fire 
in them without the least trace of fumes being perceptible in the 
room. The fuel consists of some well-burned pieces of charcoal, 
which lie imbedded in white straw-ashes, with which the fire¬ 
pan is nearly filled to the brim. When some glowing coals are 
laid in such ashes they retain their heat for hours, until they are 
completely consumed. In every well-furnished house there are 
a number of braziers of different sizes, and there are often four- 
cornered hatches in the floor, which conceal a stone foundation 
intended as a base for the large brazier, over which the food 
is cooked. 
At meal-times all the dishes are brought in at the same time 
on small lacquered tables, about half a foot high, and with a 
surface of four square feet. The dishes are placed in lacquered 
cups, less frequently in porcelain cups, and carried to the mouth 
with chop-sticks, without the help of knife, fork, or spooii^ 
For fear of the fish-oils, which are used instead of butter, I 
never dared to test completely the productions of the Japanese art 
of cookery; but Dr. Ahnquist and Lieut. Nordquist, who were 
more unprejudiced, said they could put up with them very 
well. The following 7Renio gives an idea of what a Japanese 
inn of the better class has to offer:— 
Vegetable soup. 
Boiled rice, sometimes with minced fowl. 
Boiled fish or raw fish with horse-radish. 
Vegetables with fish-sauce. 
Tea. 
Soy is used to the fish. The rice is brought in hot in a 
