XVII.] 
FIRES. 
331 
have hewn us in pieces with one of the two swords he had 
formerly as samurai been entitled to wear, than received us 
under his roof. After our entrance he still turned to the police 
official with the cry of lamentation : '' Must I then actually 
receive these barbarians ? ” But we had our revenge in a noble 
way. We took off our boots before we entered the room, were so 
profuse with talk, civilities, and bows, and on the whole behaved 
in such a courteous fashion, that our previously distracted host 
not only bade us welcome back, but also gave us a letter of 
introduction to the innkeepers at an inn where we were to stay 
next, declaring that if we showed this letter we need not fear 
any such disagreeable adventure as that just described. 
Most of the houses in the Japanese towns are built of pretty 
thin, carefully joined timbers. But besides these there are to be 
seen here and there small houses with very thick walls, windows 
provided with heavy iron gratings, and doors that could be 
fastened with large locks and bolts. These houses are fire- 
resisting, and are used as storehouses for valuables and household 
articles when there is danger of fire. Fires are so common in 
Japan that it is supposed that a tenth part of every town is 
burned down yearly. The fireman corps is numerous, well 
ordered from old times, its members bold and daring. During 
our stay overnight at Takasaki we were lodged in such a fire¬ 
proof house, in very large clean apartments with the floor partly 
covered with carpets after the European pattern. The walls 
were very thick and of brick ; the interior fittings and stairs on 
the other hand of wood. 
I have just mentioned that we were compelled to resort to the 
police in order to obtain quarters for the night. Policemen are 
numerous in Japan, both in town and country. For the most 
part they are taken from the former samurai class. They are 
clothed in the European style; and walk, with a long stick in a 
certain position under the arm, quietly and calmly on the streets 
and roads, without, except in cases of necessity, making any 
