358 
THE VOYAGE OF THE VEGA. 
[chap. 
distributed partly in a gently rising amphitheatre, partly in 
several tiers of boxes rising one above another, the lowest - tier 
being considered the principal one. The Japanese do not sit 
in the same way as we do. Neither the amphitheatre nor the 
boxes accordingly are provided with chairs or benches, but are 
divided into square compartments one or two feet deep, each in¬ 
tended for about four persons. They sit on cushions, squatting 
cross-legged in the common Japanese fashion. The compart¬ 
ments are divided by broad cross beams, which form the passages 
by which the spectators get to their places. During the play 
we saw attendants running about with tea, saki, tobacco pipes, 
and small braziers. For every one smokes during the acts, and 
places himself in his crib as comfortably as possible. The piece 
is followed with great attention, favourite actors and favourite 
passages being saluted with lively applause. Even women and 
children visit the theatre, and I have seen the former give their 
children suck without the least discomposure among thousands 
of spectators. Besides the plays intended for the public, there 
are given also a number of other dramatic representations, as 
society plays, peculiar family plays intended for the homes of the 
old feudal princes, spectacles got up for the Mikado, and some 
which have a half religious significance, &c. 
On the evening of the 5th October we came to Takasaki, 
prepared to start immediately for Tokio. But though the 
messenger we sent had duly executed his commission, horses 
could not be procured before midnight. We passed the evening 
with our former host, who at our first visit received us so un¬ 
willingly, but now with great friendliness. We would easily 
have reconciled ourselves to the delay, for a Japanese small 
town such as Takasaki has much worth seeing to offer a 
European, but a great part of the time was wasted in fruit¬ 
less attempts to get the horse-hirer to let us have the horses 
a few hours earlier. In spending time in long conversations 
mixed with civilities and bows the Japanese are masters. Of 
