THE VOYAGE OF THE VEGA. 
[chap 
S70 
When we reached Lake Biwa we were conducted by Mr. 
Koba-Yaschi to an inn close by the shore, with a splendid view 
of the southern j^art of the lake. We were shown into beautiful 
Japanese rooms, which had evidently been arranged for the 
reception of Europeans, and in which accordingly some tables 
and chairs had been placed. On the tables we found, on our 
arrival, bowls with fruit and confections, Japanese tea, and 
braziers. The walls were formed partly of tastefully gilt paper 
panels ornamented with mottoes, reminding visitors of the 
splendid view. 
A whole day of the short time which was allowed me to 
study the remarkable things of Kioto I devoted to Lake Biwa, 
because lakes are exceedingly uncommon in the south, for they 
occur only in the countries which have either been covered with 
glaciers in the most recent geological periods, or, in consequence 
of the action of volcanic forces, have been the scene of violent 
disturbances of the surface of the earth. I believed that Lake 
Biwa would form an exception to this, but I was probably 
mistaken ; for tradition relates that this lake was formed in a 
single night at the same time that the high volcanic cone of 
Fusiyama was elevated. This tradition, in its general outline, 
corresponds so closely with the teaching of geology, that scarcely 
any geologist will doubt its truth. 
After our arrival at the inn we had to wait a very long time 
for the steamer I had ordered. On this account I thoughtlessly 
enough broke out in reproaches on my excellent Japanese adju¬ 
tants, who, however, received my hard words only with friendly 
smiles, which increased still further my impatience at the loss of 
time which was thus occasioned. It was not until far on in the 
day, when I was already out dredging from a small steamer, that 
I was informed as to the cause of the delay. The Biwa Steamship 
Company had, at the request of the Governor, intended to place 
at my disposal a very large boat well provided with coal, but after 
taking the coal on board it had sunk so deep that it grounded 
