XVIII.] 
WEARING THE SWORD IN JAPAN. 
377 
of the guard-plates of the sword. They are often veritable 
works of artj unsurpassed in style and execution. 
It is not very many years ago since the men who belonged to 
the samurai class never showed themselves abroad without 
being armed with two swords. Even schoolboys went armed to 
the first European schools that were established in the country. 
This gave occasion to several acts of violence during the time 
which succeeded the opening of the ports, for which reason the 
European ambassadors some years after requested that carrying 
the sword in time of peace should be prohibited. To this the 
Japanese government answered that it would make short work 
with the minister who should publish such a prohibition. Soon 
after, however, it gave ^permission to those who desired it to go 
without weapons, and the carrying of arms soon became so un¬ 
fashionable that one of the authorities did dare at last to issue a 
distinct prohibition of it. During our stay in Japan, accordingly, 
we did not see a single man armed with the two swords formerly 
in use. 
After we had seen and admired the treasures in the temple 
vestibule, we visited the temple itself. This is always of wood, 
richly ornamented with carvings and gilding. If it is dedicated 
to Shinto, there are no images in it, and very few ornaments, if 
we except a mirror and a large locked press with the doors 
smashed in, which sometimes occupies the wall opposite the 
entrance, and in which, as I have already stated, the spirit of the 
deity is said to dwell. The Shinto temples are in general poor. 
Many are so inconsiderable as to look almost like dovecotes. 
They are often completely deserted, so that it is difficult to 
discover them among the magnificent trees by which they were 
surrounded. The entrance to the temple is indicated by a gate 
{iorryi) of wood, stone, or copper, and here and there are ropes, 
stretched over the way, to which written prayers and vows are 
affixed. 
Even those who have long studied Japan and its literature 
