1892 
Cuernavaca 
(Morelos) 
the low, tile-roofed houses covering the slopes of the small valley¬ 
like gulch, one’s eye passes over the waving fronds of a fine palm 
tree rising on the top of the opposite bank to range across miles of 
dun, brown rolling plains and hills to the dark, pine-covered base of 
Popoeatapetl and thenoe up to the gleaming white crest of this mighty 
peak. 
Just at twilight, while the fading light of day brightens with a 
vanishing glow all the salient points of the landscape and the eastern 
sky is taking on its sable night hues a few stars twinkling forth un¬ 
certainly, the beauty of the "Smoking Mountain" is marvelous to see 
and its loveliness drew me back here evening after evening, 
She combination of a gracefully spreading palm with a background 
of a snow-capped volcanic peak recalled a picture that I remember em¬ 
bellished one of my earlier geographies. 
There are many memories connected with this town, for here Cortes 
made a favorite resort and in this was imitated by Maximilian in his 
unfortunate filibustering expedition. 
From all X could see and learn, I was not favorably impressed with 
the officials of this State, although the Governor was not there and I 
only saw the Secretary of State whom I found singularly devoid of 
courtesy. Presenting to him ay letter from, the Secretary of State in 
Mexieo, I explained among other things, being a stranger there, I 
would be greatly indebted to him if he could inform me of sane one who 
had horses to hire and a good guide to take me to see the ruins of 
Xoohioaleo, To this he replied by asking if X could not find them my¬ 
self! To this I made answer that if I had supposed I need expect no 
assistance from the authorities I need not have presented my letter of 
recommendation. He then agreed to find the outfit for me and sent out 
one of his messengers for the purpose. The result was that the man 
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