1892 
Cuernavaca 
(Morelos) 
provided was one of the surliest fellows I have employed in the country, 
and ny horse was one of the worst beasts I have ridden. The guide lied 
to me at the ruin and prevented my seeing one of the most interesting 
parts. 
Coming after the almost universal politeness with which I have been 
received and assisted by the governors of various other states, I was 
very disagreeably impressed by the inhospitable character of the offi¬ 
cials of this state. During my stay at Y ant epee a little later, I had 
additional cause to complain of a very similar treatment on the part 
of smaller officials and, combined with a peculiarly tricky set of 
Indian inhabitants, I found Morelos a State of no very pleasant 
character. 
Leaving Cuernavaca in the morning, I rode across the country for 
about 10 or 12 miles to the ruin of Xochioaleo. The route was across 
a sloping plain of scanty soil and much lava broken by numerous steep- 
sided canons. Scattered over the surface of the country were many 
lava boulders of small size. 
Several large, white-sided Jack Babbits were seen which made use 
of their dark back patches in a curious way. When undisturbed, they 
hopped about among the lava rooks, their white sides flashing in the 
sun, but if alarmed they faced away from the danger and squatted so 
to present their backs and were instantly lost to sight. Then they 
would quietly steal away 100 yards or sc^ and one would be surprised 
to see his game suddenly begin zig-zagging among the rooks at a dis¬ 
tance from where he supposed he had marked it dam. This is a curious 
case of directive and protective coloration in the same animal, 
Xochioalco is on a hill rising on the slope and overlooking the 
low country to the south, east, and west. Hear it I passed through 
an Indian village whose inhabitants are undoubtedly the descendants of 
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