X895 
Tetela del 
Voloan 
to burn before the altar. At night the portioo of the public building 
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where we lodged was crowded to its utmost capacity by a motley gather¬ 
ing of pilgrims of all sexes and ages. The nights were sharp and al¬ 
most frosty yet they rolled down a rush mat and, covered with a thin 
serape, seemed to sleep comfortably. At early dawn all were up and off, 
lllhon travelling even when carrying a heavy load, these people and, in 
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fact, most of the Indians of the country, have a short trot that they 
seem to keep up indefinitely. They carry a back-load of garden truck 
or fruit to market 20 to 40 or 50 miles in this way, sleeping wherever 
night overtakes them, and I have seen them returning in a contented 
♦ 
frame of mind with the entire proceeds of their trip invested in little 
rockets to be let off at the next feast day. 
One night the crowd in front of our quarters united in singing a 
hymn in praise of the saint they were to visit, and the effect was wild 
and picturesque. The voices arose and fell in the rhythmic, chant-like 
effect so often the character of Indian music. About 200 of these fan¬ 
atical people united in this song, 
Sunday at this village was a day of general gathering from all the 
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i 
vicinity. In the morning a mass was said in the church, Under the 
' 
trees in the small square were ranged a few market women selling fruits, 
* 
sweetmeats, nuts, and vegetables. The pulque shops and cantinas were ' 
thronged and the men stood about in groups or squatted in the shade. 
The solitary amusement appeared to be to get drunk. In the evening a 
fantastical firework exhibit was given in the churchyard. The most 
amusing part of this show was toward the end when a large framework 
oovered with wheels, squibs and serpents, was fastened on the head end 
Shoulders of an active young fellow who, when the thing was lighted, 
began a wild career among the crowds of people leaping about end rush¬ 
ing head foremost into the midst of the thickest crowds causing shrieks 
158 - 
