January 8, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
37 
seems to be an apt pupil of Mr. Djdwell), repeating the accusation in 
another form. These shall be taken into consideration presently. Mr. 
Dean’s circular was sent in the torm of a “ statement ” to the Editor of a 
contemporary, but was returned as unfit for their pages. When commu¬ 
nications are unfit for publication in the usual way they can always be 
issued in circular form, only their authors must not forget that there is a 
law of libel. There are two sides to every question, and just and reason¬ 
able men consider both before deciding. 
We are promised by Mr. Dodwell a history of both Societies. He 
says, “ I founded the Auricula Society, and, that made safe, promoted on 
the same lines the Carnation and Picotee Society.” Had Mr. Dodwell no 
helpers ? Has he forgotten our first meeting on August 10th, 1876, in the 
Botanical Gardens at Manchester ? The first suggestion of the exhibitions 
was made there. I believe I have attended every meeting, whether it 
was committee, general, or special, since that date, and always taking 
long journeys to attend them, while Mr. Dodwell sometimes did not need 
to stir from bis own fireside. I have a history dating from August 10th, 
1876. That history can be written by me as well as it can by Mr Dod¬ 
well. In conclusion, I wish to say that I will answer no more letters or 
circulars either from Mr. Dodwell or his pupil Mr. Richard Dean. — 
Jas. Douglas. 
[Having permitted Mr. Dean to make his statement, and published the 
above replies, we must decline any further discussion in our columns, 
but replies can be distributed in circulars through the post to persons 
specially interested; and we cannot refrain from expressing our regret 
that in some circulars the literature of horticulture should be so degraded. 
It is not surprising they were rejected by the press. We long ago refused 
to insert Mr. Dodwell’s letters. Their tedious verbosity might have been 
endurable, but their coarse personal reflections were quite inadmissible. 
His animus is now directed against Mr. Douglas, not because he resigned 
his position as Secretary, but because he was unanimously elected sole 
secretary by the Committee, and the election was ratified by the general 
meeting. As Mr. Dodwell has stated, “ I have long known my period of 
work has passed,” and “ regretted I had not retired in 1881; ” and further, 
that “ the dual secretaryship added to, not diminished, the work,” and he 
would, “ without hesitation,” leave the secretaryship in Mr. Douglas’s 
hands “ but for that thing men call caste,” and that gentlemen (whom 
Mr. Dodwell has named) “would not allow him (Mr. Douglas) to lead 
unless he became Sir James ”—after writing such sentences, which 
were read to him after the general meeting in December, Mr. Dodwell’s 
attitude is the more extraordinary, because Mr. Douglas was elected 
without seeking the appointment. After stating these few facts, which 
we think ought to be stated, the public will be better able to estimate 
Mr. Dodwell’s conduct, and understand the reasons that existed for not 
accepting Mr. Douglas’s resignation.] 
HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES IN POTS. 
( Continued from page 564.) 
The question next presents itself, Whether the plants are to be allowed 
to bloom, or must another sacrifice be made ? Those intended for forcing 
the following season may be flowered without much detriment, but if the 
buds are removed directly they are visible, the superior growth of the 
plants will more than compensate for the loss of the flowers. Those 
required for specimen plants may also be flowered, but this is by no 
means advisable, for if they are allowed to bloom a season’s growth is 
lost. Plants that are flowered will have to grow another season before 
they possess the same number of shoots that can be produced the first 
season by the system of culture I intend to detail. After the shoots of 
these plants have been trained outwards, and have assumed an upright 
position until the wood attains some firmness towards the base, they should 
be cut back to the place where they start upright. The strongest shoots in 
the centre may be served the same, only these should be cut farther back 
than those trained towards the rim of the pot. This is done to induce the 
plants to produce a greater number of shoots. For instance, if the plant 
to commence with possess only half a dozen growing shoots, by cutting 
them back instead of allowing them to flower fully double that number 
will be produced. The plants intended for forcing early, or moderately 
early, must not be cut back, but should be allowed to extend without, 
whether they are flowered or not. As soon as the plants start into growth 
they should receive every encouragement necessary to thoroughly develope 
it. If they are to make wool sufficiently strong, and ripen it sufficient 
for producing good flowers another year, they must occupy a position 
under glass until growth is completed. If this accommodation cannot be 
accorded them they may be placed outside after the weather is sufficiently 
genial. It is a good plan to make up a bed of fermenting material when 
they are first turned out and plunge the pots in it. The heat derived from 
an outside hotbed keeps the roots very active, while the top growth will 
be sturdy and strong. Before this second growth is completed the pot 
will be crammed with roots, and applications of artificial manure may be 
applied to the surface occasionally, or weak liquid manure given every 
alternate time they require water. The plants may be also transferred 
into pots 2 inches larger, the latter being the best course to pursue, and 
then no farther potting will be needed until after the plants have flowered 
the following season. Those grown for early forcing may also be potted 
in August, which will give them ample time to become established before 
winter. 
The plants should occupy cold frames again during the winter, and be 
treated exactly the same as had advised for the first season. In early spring 
they may be pruned, leaving about two eyes on the wood made after the 
shoots were cut back. These plants will produce a number of shoots this 
season, and a regular head of bloom, but their flowering entirely depends 
upon the wood made and the stage of ripeness it attained before the 
approach of winter. No attempt should be made to force them into 
flower, but they should be allowed to come forward as gradually and 
naturally as possible No injury will be done if they are grown in a 
house where the night temperature ranges about 60°, provided a good 
circulation of air is given during the day to insure a sturdy growth. 
They need not be given this position until they have started into growth. 
The strongest shoots that are taking the lead must be trained outwards, 
so that the flowers will be evenly distributed over the whole plant. This 
is best accomplished by tying and training the shoots while in a growing 
state. In order to extend the size of the plants another year the strongest 
shoots should be trained into their proper positions, so that when pruning 
has to done again, 6 to 9 inches of the last year’s wood can be left. This 
will lay the foundation for plants of large size, and to insure their 
breaking well they must be started into growth under cool conditions. 
After flowering the second season the plants may be grown outside, 
plunged in ashes, and repotted again towards the end of August. This 
time the soil should be carefully removed from amongst the roots until 
the old ball is reduced by at least one-third, when they may be repotted 
in the same size pots. Roses do not require large pots after the foundation 
of specimens has been laid. It is a great mistake to check them in their 
early by want of root-room ; it is better to pot them on and reduce the 
size of the pots after good plants have been formed. After potting, the 
plants should be liberally syringed overhead to keep the foliage healthy, 
so that a good quantity of fresh roots will be made again by winter. 
During the season of growth the foliage must be kept free from insects 
and mildew. Aphides are most readily eradicated by fumigating with 
tobacco. Red spider can easily be kept in check by a judicious use of the 
syringe, and the mildew may be stopped by syringing with a solution 
of softsoap prepared as I have recommended frequently in this 
Journal. 
The soil most suitable for these Roses is good fibry loam, one-seventh 
of cow manure rubbed through a sieve and prepared by drying, one 
6-inch potful of soot, and the same quantity of bonemeal to each barrow¬ 
ful of soil. If the loam is heavy a little coarse sand may with advan¬ 
tage be added ; if light, one-seventh of clay. The best means of in¬ 
corporating this with the soil is to dry it and then reduce it to 
powder. 
During the season-of growth Roses should never suffer by an insuffi¬ 
cient supply of water, or they will soon become a prey to insects and 
mildew. Liberal quantities of water may be given, but under no con¬ 
ditions should the soil be saturated. The soil in which Roses are growing 
should never be dust-dry, not even during the season of rest, for this is 
injurious and unnatural to them. During this period the soil should be 
maintained in an intermediate state for moisture as near as possible. 
The forcing of these plants into flower, their treatment, and manage¬ 
ment afterwards, must form the subject of another paper.— Wm. Bardney. 
ROTATION OF CROPS. 
Kindly give in your correspondence columns some practical hints that 
will aid me, as unfortunately I have not had sufficient experience to act 
with confidence in cropping a rather large kitchen garden now under my 
charge.— Ex-Foreman. 
[As the subject is too comprehensive to be dealt with satisfactorily in 
the form of a reply in the column referred to we append the following 
article by Mr. T. Record, who has had considerable experience in the 
important work in question :—“ I think it will not be denied that a kitchen 
garden is an object to which considerable importance should be attached, 
its produce being as serviceable to the rich as to the poor, and important 
in affording wholesome and necessary food for all. Much encouragement 
has been given in various ways to vegetable culture during recent years, and 
improvement has followed ; yet notwithstanding this improvement, I am of 
opinion that there are many persons among the middle and lower classes 
who would be greatly benefited if we could impress upon them the good 
results that would come from a thoroughly practical and systematic method 
of cultivating their gardens. I have selected two or three divisions or sub¬ 
jects upon which I think I can offer a few remarks, which, though not 
unknown in practice to the professional gardener, are certainly not studied 
sufficiently by those to whom I write. The first is 
“ Management of the Soil .—It is well known that soils vary considerably 
in different parts of the country, and even in the small garden of the 
amateur, or the still smaller plot of the cottager, there are frequently to be 
found soils of different characters. Assuming, then, that a person takes 
possession of a garden in autumn, he may find a strong adhesive loam, a 
light sandy loam, or a very poor gravelly soil; in each case, however, he 
may assure himself that the soil can be so improved as to be made to grow 
to perfection any sort of vegetable likely to be required, and in many 
instances without the addition of manure, for the first crop at any rate. 
This advantage must not be lost sight of, especially when manure has to be 
purchased, or cannot be obtained without much trouble. 
“ All soils are greatly benefited by pulverising—that is, trenching, digging, 
and ridging. In trenching or digging a retentive soil a good portion of 
some light opening soil may be added, with manure if necessary. If the 
soil is light and sandy, add a portion of loam or other substantial soil ; or if 
a gravelly one, which is generally what is called a hungry soil, it will be 
much improved by the addition of any soil of more consistency than itself. 
Unless the ground has been under cultivation for years I do not advise the 
first trenching to be a deep one—a spit and a half or 18 inches will be suffi¬ 
cient until the surface soil has been worked and improved ; this, when 
turn!d-in to the depth of 2 feet, wi]l prove more beneficial to succeeding 
