January 8, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
41 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Hyacinths .—These will now come forward more quickly than has 
been the case up to the present. It is a mistake to transfer them suddenly 
from a low to a high temperature, for they will not start as freely as if 
they were brought forward under gradual and more natural conditions. 
However well rooted the bulbs may be they never do so well when 
hurried into flower, and frequently they commence opening their flowers 
on the top of the spike first. After they are removed from the plunging 
material they should be allowed to become perfectly green in a cool 
structure before they are introduced into a temperature of 45° to 50° to 
start, but as soon as they have commenced growing rapidly they may with 
safety be given a temperature of 5° or 10° higher if they are wanted 
quickly. They should be brought forward gradually in successional 
batches, so as to allow time for them to develope their flowers under com¬ 
paratively cool conditions, as they will last much longer than those ex¬ 
panded in heat. In forcing arrange the plants as close to the glass as 
possible to keep both the foliage and flower spikes dwarf, for half their 
beauty is destroyed when they are drawn up tall and weakly. Supply 
weak stimulants liberally when growth is active, if large bells and spikes 
are required, and be careful that they never suffer by the want of water in 
any stage after removal from the material in which they have been 
plunged. Those that are not wanted for forcing for some time should be 
kept as cool as possible ; if frost is just excluded from them it will be all 
that is required. Examine all that are still under ashes outside, and if 
they have well filled their pots with roots remove them to a cold frame 
and protect them from frost by covering with mats. The greatest care 
must be taken in admitting light to them until they are perfectly green. 
If exposed directly they come out of the ashes both the foliage and flower 
spikes are liable to be injured. It is a good plan to place mats over the frame 
for a few days. Those not ready for removal from the material in which they 
are plunged should have at least 6 inches of material over them, and in case 
of severe weather they must be farther protected with straw or any other 
material, so that they can be removed at any time when ready if frost 
continues without the slightest iDjury. Care should be taken that they 
are not left too long under the plunging material, for they must be re¬ 
moved directly they are ready. 
Tulips .—The single varieties that were potted early will now come 
forward rapidly under the same conditions as Hyacinths. They will bear a 
little more heat without injury. All that were put thickly together in pans 
and boxes should be forced into flower first, for if lifted out of the boxes 
when in bloom, and placed five or s'x together in 5-inch pots, they will last 
as long as if they have been started and grown in them. But when this 
system is practised later in the season these flowers do not last nearly so 
long. Early in the season these bulbs flower somewhat irregularly, and 
it is almost impossible to produce even pots of blooms without they are 
made up from boxes or pans as they come into flower. Tulips are 
invaluable for room-decoration, especially early in the season, and are 
both choice and effective when five or six bulbs of one colour are used 
together or dotted singly amongst moss and small Ferns for edging groups 
or baskets of plants that may be used in various positions in dwelling 
rooms. Successional and late batches should be treated exactly the same 
as recommended for Hyacinths. 
Narcissi .—Up to the present time the supply of these sweet useful 
flowers Jhas been obtained from the Paper White and Double Roman 
Narcissi, but States General, Grand Primo, and such varieties, if potted 
as advised, will soon produce their flowers without much difficulty. The 
first is our earliest variety, and is grown here in preference to the two 
former, which are not always certain to flower profusely. It is probably 
a week or ten days later, but very much depends upon the time the bulbs 
can be obtained. Great care must be taken in forcing Narcissi into flower, 
or the foliage draws up tall and weakly, which destroys the appearance of 
the plants for decorative purposes. This does not matter very much 
when the flowers are required only for cutting, but when the plants have 
to be associated with others it is important that the foliage as well as the 
flowers be as dwarf and sturdy as possible. Keep the plants close to the 
glass in an intermediate temperature, and give them a little air daily 
when favourable. Strong heat and a close confined atmosphere are 
unsuitable for the Narcissus. These bulbs when they once started grow 
rapidly under the plunging material outside, and care must be taken that 
they are not neglected by being allowed to remain too long before they 
are removed. 
CrocxLscs. —No attempt must be made to force these into flower in 
beat, for they will fail to come forward and total failure will be the result. 
They should never be subjected to a higher temperature than 45°, in which 
they will come forward rapidly and soon commence unfolding their flowers. 
To have Crocuses real early, those that flower late in the season should be 
retained in pots and liberally treated for flowering early the following 
season. These, if carefully hardened and supplied with water until they 
have completed their growth, may be then plunged outside, entirely 
covering the pots with ashes, and if they remain undisturbed during the 
summer they will flower fully three weeks earlier than it is possible to 
induce imported roots to unfold their flowers. 
Scilla sibirica .—These should be brought into bloom under as natural 
a condition as possible. Any attempt at forcing them in heat will end in 
failure. They naturally open their flowers singly, and if hurried many of 
the bulbs refuse to open their flowers at all. If brought on the same as 
advised for Crocuses they flower well in pots and make beautiful specimens 
for the first row of the conservatory. 
Allium ncapolitanum .—Those who are growing this plant in pots for 
the first time must avoid introducing them into heat, for they will not 
bear it without injury, for the foliage soon draws up weakly. The foliage 
is all produced before the flowers are visible; the latter will come forwar d 
and do well if kept in a cool house where the temperature does not exceed 
45°. Give abundance of water, and keep them while growing as near to 
the glass as possible if wanted for decoration in pots, but the flowers are 
more useful for cutting. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Bedding Plants .—Zonal Pelargoniums that have been kept perfectly 
dry at the roots are keeping well, only a very few in our case damping 
off. They should be still kept quite dry for at least another month, as 
any growth formed during the dull winter months is certain to be weakly 
and very liable to damp off. Remove all decaying leaves, and, where 
possible, turn on the fire heat, and give air freely on fine days. Calceo¬ 
larias, Violas, and Gazanias now struck in cold frames should have 
abundance of air whenever weather permits, in order to prevent untimely 
growth. To prevent the soil about these and various other plants neces¬ 
sarily wintered in frames from becoming sour, occasionally stir it with a 
pointed stick or label, keep it rather on the dry side, and give air freely 
on dry days. The timely removal of a decaying plant, shoot, or leaf 
may frequently prevent the spread of decay to several plants surrounding 
it. Succulents are especially liable to damp off, and these must be kept 
perfectly dry and frequently examined. A dry shelf in a greenhouse or 
vinery best suits them, but the majority of the bedding kinds may be 
safely wintered in frames, providing proper care is taken with them. Severe 
frosts may be experienced at any time, and those who have many plants 
in frames must not be caught napping. The frames and pits with thin 
walls should be heavily banked round with either rough dry litter or 
leaves, and plenty of the former should always be ready for completely 
and heavily covering the frames—this in addition to either mats, old 
carpets, bags, or other material that may be put on. Do not be in a 
hurry to uncover after a severe frost is breaking up, and any frozen plants 
should be freely syringed with cold water, and kept close and heavily 
shaded, in order to ensure the necessary slow thaw. A rapid thaw proves 
fatal to many plants that with a little care would have recovered. 
Chrysanthemums .—Owing to the favourable season both for growth 
and flowering, those in the open have been unusually good, and this we 
should think will induce many to plant them out more extensively than 
heretofore. Where large quantities of cut flowers are wanted during the 
autumn, the open-air Chrysanthemums may generally prove of good 
service, especially if a considerable number of plants be lifted and re¬ 
planted in positions at the foot of walls previously occupied by the 
Tomatoes. Here they can be readily protected with mats, and will yield 
a surprisingly large number of good blooms. Young plants are much 
superior to old ones, and cuttings taken from house-grown and still- 
protected plants strike more readily than do those taken from the outside 
and perhaps frost-bitten plants. Our plan is to strike the number of 
plants required at the same time as we do those intended for pot culture, 
the majority already being rooted. A very slight hotbed and a frame is 
necessary or the best place to root Chrysanthemums at this time of year, 
the cuttings be placed thinly in small well-drained pots. A little ventila¬ 
tion should be left on if there is much steam in the bed, and any cuttings 
or leaves that are damping off should at once be removed. After they 
are rooted keep them cool, and protect the frames when there are 
signs of frost. Stop the plants early in March, and when breaking 
afresh pot off singly into 4-inch pots, using rich loamy soil. 
When well established they should be gradually hardened off and planted 
out before they are badly root-hound. They should have a good open 
position, the soil being well manured if at all poor, and may be planted 
about 2 feet apart each way. One stopping, this being done not later 
than May, is all that is advisable, as about six strong shoots are ample, 
and these if properly staked up will branch freely and eventually produce 
wreaths of blooms earlier and superior to any that may be grown in pots. 
At least that is our experience. Much depends upon the selection 
of varieties being suitable, as we find many of the finest sorts are fit for 
pot culture only. Some of the best of the summer or early autumn 
flowering section are La Petite Marie, Chromatella, Madame C. Desgrange 
—one of the best; Hendersonii, Little Bob, Pr6coeitb, Illustration, Golden 
Madame Domage, Adrastes, Frederick Pel6, and Soeur Melaine, the last- 
named being one of the most serviceable sorts in cultivation. Good 
Pompons are Bijou d’Horticulture, Snowdrop, White, Gold, Lilac and 
Brown Cedo Nullis, Mdlle. Marthe, Golden Circle, Bob, and Model of Per¬ 
fection. Reflexed sorts that do well are Alma, Golden, Peach and Pink 
Christines, Chevalier Domage, Dr. Sharpe, Gazelle, King of Crimsons, 
and Julie Lagrav^re, the last-mentioned being one of the very best for 
open-air culture. The majority of the smaller incurved varieties do well, 
but the best with us were Barbara, Compactum, General Bainbrigge, 
Guernsey Nugget, Mrs. Dixon, Lord Wolseley, Mrs. G. Rundle, Mr. 
George Glenny, Mr. Corbay, Prince Alfred, Prince of Wales, Venus, and 
White Globe. Of Japanese, the best were Hiver Fleuri, Dr. Macary, 
Elaine, Fair Maid of Guernsey, Fremy, L’Africaine, Lady Selborne, Nuit 
d’Hiver, Peter the Great, Purple Prince, Source d’Or, Triomphe du Nord, 
Lord Beaconsfield, and James Salter. 
Renovating Roses .—Unless Roses are occasionally lifted and replanted 
in good fresh soil they not unfrequently fail to bloom satisfactorily. A 
complete change of position is advisable, but if this is not possible they 
should be lifted, the ground deeply dug, and a quantity of fresh loam or 
good garden soil and short manure be well mixed in. Before being 
replanted all the long roots should be shortened somewhat, and if th 
Rcses can be planted before the ground has become saturated with rain 
so much the better. After all have been planted and the ground levelled 
a mulching of strawy manure should at once be given. 
