January 22, 1885. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
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Royal Society at 4.30 p.m. 
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Quekett Club at 8 P.m. 
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Royal Botanic Society at. 3.45 P.M 
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2nd Sunday after epiphany. 
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Society of Arts at 8 p.m. 
THE CULTURE OF AERIDES. 
ERIDES must be classed amongst useful Orchids, 
and as the majority of the species can be obtained 
for a few shillings each they are thus within the 
reach of all who desire to grow them. Fortu¬ 
nately a house set apart for these plants is not 
essential to their successful cultivation, for they 
can be well grown in an ordinary plant stove. 
The Aerides are very serviceable because they 
supply useful flowers for cutting, and although 
they are not so showy as those of many other Orchids, they 
are choice, delicate, and highly fragrant. Under good 
cultivation the flowers are freely produced, and are suitable 
either for using altogether on the spike in moderately small 
vases with a spray or two of Adiantum cuneatum, or singly 
wired for bouquets or buttonholes. The flowers proceed 
from the axils of the leaves during May, June, and July, 
and last from two to four weeks. Some of the racemes are 
nearly 2 feet in length, and the perfume is so strong that they 
deliciously scent the air of the house in which they are grown. 
Even when not in flower the plants are ornamental, for they 
are evergreen, their slightly arched leaves and numerous 
roots being always interesting, especially when suspended 
from the roof. 
These plants can be grown successfully in pots, and are 
then much more easily removed than when in baskets or 
upon blocks. For exhibition they should always be in pots, 
as they can be packed and transferred with less injury to 
their roots than could otherwise be done. Frequently, where 
flowers in abundance are demanded, stage room is too limited, 
and it is an advantage to have plants to supply flowers that 
can be grown in positions that will not take up valuable 
space. In this case it is preferable to grow the plants in 
baskets suspended from the roof. This is decidedly the 
most natural system, for the roots are freely forced through 
the sides of the baskets, and the plants thrive accordingly. 
Aerides can be grown on blocks of wood, but they require 
such constant attention in supplying them with water that 
baskets are preferable. 
When these Orchids are grown in pots a moderate size will 
accommodate large plants, unless an attempt is made to cram 
the majority of their roots into them, which necessitates the 
use of a larger amount of potting material and much larger 
pots than there is any occasion for. Many plants are 
brought into an unhealthy condition through the use of too 
much soil about their roots. Even large plants with a 
number of stems do not require such large tubs or pots as we 
frequently see them in. The object of using any material in 
the pots is chiefly to retain moisture, and the roots that are 
thrown into the atmosphere are always healthier than those 
confined in pots. The pots as well as the crocks used for 
drainage must be perfectly clean, and the former at least 
three parts filled. 
If the stem of the plant is rather long the lower part may 
be removed, as well as all dead and decaying roots. The 
stem and living roots, if too numerous or long to be arranged 
No. 239 .—Vol. X., Third Ser es. 
above the drainage, may be placed among the crocks as filling 
in the drainage proceeds. A layer of living sphagnum can 
then be placed over the drainage, and the pots filled level to the 
rim with moss and lumps of charcoal varying in size accord¬ 
ing to the size of the pots employed. Crocks broken mode¬ 
rately small may be used instead of the charcoal, or both 
may be employed. The potting material should be well 
elevated above the rim of the pots, but the top portion must 
consist of sphagnum only. Peat for these plants is unneces¬ 
sary, and the moss is much more readily removed when 
decomposed than if a mixture of peat and moss were 
employed. 
When plants are established in pots all that is needed in 
repotting them is to carefully remove the moss and such 
lumps of charcoal that are loose; then wash away from 
amongst the drainage all small particles that may have 
become deposited amongst them. This is readily done by 
pouring into the pot tepid water out of the spout of a watering 
can, or better by immersing the pot and lower part of the 
plant in a tub of water and lifting it out two or three 
minutes after it is thoroughly filled with water. After this 
the draiuage, pot, and plant should be allowed to dry 
thoroughly before the charcoal and living moss is again 
returned. The whole of the material should be renewed 
annually, or at the very longest period every second year, the 
former being preferable, as the moss becomes decayed and 
unsuitable for the roots to work in. When larger pots are 
required they must be carefully examined, and if the roots 
are found clinging to the sides the pots should be broken and 
the plants repotted into those of a larger size, being careful 
to leave the portions of pot attached to the roots. 
The best time for repotting is when growth is commencing 
in spring, which depends upon the temperature of the house 
in which they are grown during the winter. When the plants 
are to be placed in baskets, I prefer doing so directly they 
are established in small pots or upon blocks, as will be de¬ 
scribed for imported plants. Frequently when established 
plants are purchased to start with, they are in small pots 
because they can be packed and removed with less injury to 
the roots than when in baskets. If small healthy plants 
are obtained they should be placed in baskets not less than 
7 inches square. It is a mistake to have them in those of 
a smaller size so that larger will be needed the following 
season, for in those named they will do for several years. 
The baskets must be liberally drained with crocks and lumps 
of charcoal until at least half full. They should then have 
a layer of moss over the charcoal and the plant placed in, 
filling the remaining space as described for those in pots. 
Rebasketing the plants is rather difficult, as the thick 
fleshy roots of some species (for instance, A. crispum) cling 
tenaciously to the wooden bars. Such kinds as A. virens 
and A. Lobbii are more inclined to throw their roots into 
the atmosphere of the house, and they can therefore be 
moved from one basket to another with ease and without 
much injury to their roots. If the baskets are thoroughly 
decomposed before they require new ones the work can be 
better accomplished, and the wood when decayed can easily 
be removed after the wires have been loosened. It is a 
good plan to have moderately soft wood baskets, so that 
they will decay by the time the plants require a larger size. 
Baskets about 12 inches square are preferable, for the plants 
will do well in this size for many years. If hard wood is 
employed, and the roots are clinging to it, the wires from the 
corners must be removed, and all the wood upon which roots 
are attached should be placed in the larger basket. The 
space between the two must be filled with lumps of charcoal 
or crocks. The roots will soon work in an outward direction 
through this material, and the portions of basket can be 
removed as they decompose. 
While these plants are in active growth they require a 
good supply of moisture in the atmosphere; in fact this must 
be maintained for the well-being of the plants from the end 
No. 1895 .—Vol. LXXII., Old Series. 
