76 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 22, 1885. 
small in the pod, but very early. Early Longpod is one of the best for 
present sowing. The large-podded Leviathan is not recommended for 
sowing thus early. 
Sand for Seeds. —Throughout'the coldest of the spring months many 
seeds do not germinate freely in wet soils, and it is a great advantage to 
assist them as much as possible. One of the best ways of doing this we 
have tried is to have in a quantity of sea or river sand, and as the seeds 
are sown they are covered to the depth of 1 inch. It is almost impossible 
for them to perish under this covering, and free germination is the rule. 
Leaf soil is also good for this purpose, and a general mixture of old potting 
soil is useful. With material of this kind to work with no one need be 
afraid of sowing early seeds in the coldest districts. 
Hotbeds. —Wherever quantities of fermenting material can he secured 
make up plenty of these, plant them with early Potatoes, and sow 
Carrots, Radishes, &c. It is not too early now to go on with this work, as 
vegetables are always valued in spring. 
Cauliflower. —Veitch’s Extra Early Forcing should be sown in a 
small quantity in a box under glass, to supply young plants for turning 
out in March and cutting in May. Sow a pinch of Webb’s Early Emperor 
Cabbage seed at the same time, and also a little of the Early Paris Market 
Lettuce. 
Lime. —Where the quarters are very old and full of worms and grubs, 
or the soil has become rather inactive, a dressing of lime will improve it 
wonderfully. Gas lime is often recommended for vegetable quarters, and 
it is very good for destroying vermin, but it is not a good substitute for 
hot lime as a soil reviver. We have this carted from the kiln and emptied 
over the quarters, a little soil is then thrown over it, and in a day or two 
it swells and bursts, being then spread and dug or forked in. We 
never employ more than two tons to the acre, and we fork or dig it into 
the soil about this time, as it has then time to be toned down by sowing 
or planting time. 
Cabbage. —So far our autumn-sown plants have had a good time, 
and they have done well. They promise to be unusually early, and we 
are just now giving them a little attention. This consists in drawing the 
soil on each side of the rows very close and firmly up to the necks of the 
plants to keep them firm and encourage them to throw out more roots. 
Old vegetables of every description should be cleared ofE without delay, 
and get every square foot of soil dug over and prepared for the reception 
of spring crops. Where there are any earth closets add soil liberally, and 
dried or old Mushroom bed' manure may be put in too, as there is no 
manure to equal this for the growth of Celery. 
Mushrooms. —Make up fresh beds for spring-hearing. If there is not 
space in the Mushroom house, try one or two in a shed. Beds which 
show signs of ceasing to bear should be well soaked with water heated 
to 90°. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Melons. —If the seed was sown as advised the plants will now have 
their first rough leaves, with which there will be a corresponding increase 
of root-action, necessitating a shift from 3-inch into 5-inch pots, 
plunging again in a bottom heat of 75° to 80° and near the glass, as it is 
very important they be kept sturdy and short-jointed. A small stick 
may be placed to each plant, to which the growth is to be secured, which 
supports will be necessary until the plants are large enough for trans¬ 
ferring to the ridge or hillock in the Melon house ; but those plants which 
are intended to be placed in pits or frames may be transferred to their per¬ 
manent quarters at once, or as soon as the beds are ready, and they should 
be stopped at the third rough leaf. The best soil for the Melon is strong 
turfy toam ; the top 3 inches of a pasture taken off with its turf and laid 
up for about three months in summer, or six in winter, is a capital 
material, and will produce first-rate Melons without any admixture ; it 
should he chopped up into pieces about 2 inches square. If the plants are 
to be grown in pits heated by hot water the walls must be thoroughly 
limewasbed, the woodwork washed with soap and water, and the glass 
thoroughly cleaned both inside and out. Make a hillock in the centre of 
each light, about a barrowful being sufficient, and leave a space of about 
12 inches from the glass, not more, the depth of soil being 10 inches to a 
foot. The soil having been in the pit two or three days, turn out a plant 
in the centre of each hillock, and in planting press the soil firmly around 
them, being careful not to injure the stems. The plants should be mode¬ 
rately moist at the roots, so as to obviate the necessity for watering, and 
as a safeguard against slugs and damp draw a circle of quicklime and 
dry soot around each plant. The temperature by day should range from 
70° to 75°, allowing an advance of 10° from sun heat, and maintain the 
night temperature at 65° to 70°. Prepare more fermenting materials for 
linings and fresh beds, and sow more seeds for raising plants to put out 
in succession beds. 
Cucumbers. — Young Plants .—Shift these into larger pots as they 
require more root room, put a stick to each plant intended for trellises, 
and keep them near the glass so as to ensure a sturdy growth. Those 
intended for planting in pits and frames should be stopped at the third 
rough leaf, and these may be planted out as soon as the beds are ready, 
a hillock being formed in the centre of each light, and a plant turned out 
in each. Good turfy loam is the best compost, and should be somewhat 
lighter than for Melons, adding about a twentieth of charcoal. The plants 
require similar treatment to Melons as regards bottom heat, whether 
obtained by fermenting material or hot water. 
Winter Fruiters. — Plants which have been producing fruit all 
the winter will now require the surface soil of the bed removed, 
supplying an admixture of three parts of light turfy loam and one of 
short manure, which will have an invigorating influence. When the 
plants have roots working freely in the fresh material they will show it 
by a corresponding amount of growth, of which advantage should be 
taken to cut out some of the old exhausted growths and train young in 
their place, but this must be done gradually so as not to give the plants 
a check. See that the young growths are tied up to the trellis, but so 
loosely as to allow of their enlarging, as when too tight it is highly 
injurious. Avoid overcrowding the shoots, allowing space for the admis¬ 
sion of light and air, and guard against overcropping. Be careful not to 
give too much water, but whenever the necessity for it arises afford a 
thorough supply in a tepid state, or, if the plants need a stimulant, afford 
liquid manure, also in a tepid state and weak. 
Vines. —Early Forced Houses. — Cold dull weather is not favourable to 
forcing operations, yet the Vines have progressed satisfactorily, especially 
in houses where there is plenty of piping and a good supply of fermenting 
materials, which can be turned over daily for the purpose of counteracting 
the drying influence of constant fire heat. Proceed with the stopping and 
tying-in of young growths, laying in as much as will afford the foundation 
of an even spread of foliage over every part of the trellis ; but care mu t 
be taken n t to overcrowd it, especially as regards the principal foliage, 
which must have full exposure to light and air. When in bloom maintain 
a night temperature of 65° to 70°, and 70° to 75° by day artificially, and 
10° to 15° rise from sun heat. Select the most compact bunches for the 
crop, and remove all those not required. Thin as soon as the setting is 
effected—the earlier the better after the properly fertilised berries can be 
distinguished. If the inside borders have not been watered since the 
Vines were started they should have a good supply at 80° to 85° as soon 
as the flowering is over. The outside borders should have attention, and 
if fermenting materials are used a temperature of 80° must be maintained 
by means of turning and additions as necessary. 
Suceessional Forced Houses .—Vines started in December and fire heat 
applied about the middle of that month are breaking strongly, and should 
be syringed two or three times a day, for the last time sufficiently 
early to allow the rods to become fairly dry before nightfall; and if 
fermenting materials have been placed in the house, which is a capital 
plan, they should be turned over frequently to liberate ammonia and 
moisture. Discontinue the syringing when the bunches become pro¬ 
minent, and proceed with disbudding as soon as the best shows can be 
ascertained, doing it, however, gradually. A good moisture must he 
maintained by damping the paths and walls until the flowers open, when 
a free circulation of rather dry air with a little more heat will facilitate 
the setting. The night temperature should range from 60° to 65°, or a 
few degrees less on cold nights, with 65° to 70° on cold dull days, and 10° 
to 15° rise from sun heat, commencing to ventilate from 70°, and close 
early, so as to enclose as much heat as possible, and when in flower 5° 
more will be necessary all round. 
Fruiting Vines in Pots .—Look well to these, thin early, and guard 
against overcropping. Allow as much lateral extension as there is space 
for the exposure of the fo'iage to light and air. If the pots have the 
benefit of a fermenting bed turn it, but do not injure any roots that 
extend from the pots into it, maintaining the heat about the pots at 75°. 
Supply liquid manure a few degrees warmer than the house, and add a 
little top-dressing of rich material, previously warmed, as soon as the 
roots appear on the surface. 
Vines in Pots for Next Year's Fruiting.— Cut-backs are best, especially 
for eaily work, and should be taken into heat for starting. When they 
have made 2 or 3 inche < of growth shake them out and repot in a rich rough 
loam with a sprinkling of bonemeal, using pots 6 to 9 inches in diameter, 
plunging in mild bottom heat, 75° to 80 s at the base of the pots, and keep 
them near the glass. 
Late Grapes .—Examine fruit in the Grape room, scrutinising closely 
for decayed berries, dispensing with fire heat as much as possible by 
keeping the shutters closed in dull damp weather, using fire heat onlv to 
keep the temperature at 45°, and ventilate only to expel damp. The 
bottles should be kept filled as occasion requires with soft water. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Loam .—A good supply of loam that has been stacked for some months 
outside may now be placed under cover in readiness for potting when 
required, if the loam was in a sufficiently moist state when slacked and care 
was taken in the stacking to arrange it so as to protect it from heavy rains 
it should now be in very good condition. The stacks should be longer 
than wide, and the required quantity can then be cut off one end. It is a 
great mistake to leave the soil outside until it is wanted, for a period of 
wet weather might render it unfit for potting purposes. The loam placed 
under cover should be chopped or pulled to pieces as opportunities present 
themselves, so that no delay or waste of valuable time will be effected in 
preparing the soil when it is wanted for use. As much loam as will be 
required for all early potting should now be under cover, and much time 
can he saved at potting and seed-sowing time if the fibry portion is now 
separated and placed in different heaps or bins for use. If the supply of 
loam stacked in autumn be insufficient for the potting lequired during the 
year, another good stack or two should be put together, so that the grass 
will be thoroughly decayed before it is required for potting. If the loam 
is too fresh when used it gives much trouble afterwards in removing the 
grass that grows on the surface of the soil. The loam when stacked 
should always he placed grass side downwards. Some place layers of 
manure amongst the loam when stacking, but this for many reasons is not 
advisable. If'the loam is stacked by itself it can be used for any purpose, 
which is not the case when manure is mixed with it. 
Peat.—The stock of peat which is indispensable where choice plants 
