February 6 , 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . 
105 
counties of England wide apart, it is satisfactory to those who 
advocate the practice of systematic trenching to know that, 
almost without exception, the chief agency under the direction 
of these men in gaining their honours as high-class cultivators 
has been deep tilth. The late Mr. Barnes at Bicton, Devonshire, 
almost more than any other man advocated deep and syste¬ 
matic trenching. Though that well-known cultivator had much 
of his early training in market gardens, where double digging is 
the exception, he struck out new lines for himself when he 
was director in private gardens. The late Mr. Cramb, when at 
Tortworth, Gloucestershire, practised trenching extensively, and 
advised others to do the same. 
Mr. Thomson, Clovenfords, when at Wrotham Park managed 
the kitchen garden (like the other departments there) in a 
manner unsurpassed at the present time, both by high keeping 
and productiveness, and made trenching a special means of 
raising first-rate vegetables in great abundance, reducing the 
labour of watering in hot dry seasons, and extreme wet weather 
was never a barrier to success. When I was a youth employed 
under that veteran (like others who were similarly privileged) I 
was impressed with the instructions given while trenching was 
going on—that of going a good depth, but to be careful not to 
bring up the subsoil in any quantity, but turn it well over in the 
bottom. Strawberry-growing, like other fruits at Wrotham, 1 
have not seen excelled. Keen’s Seedling, especially, was forced 
extensively, and when done with under glass the plants were 
placed out in the well-trenched ground, which was heavily 
manured at the surface under the top spit. Mulching, except 
by straw to keep the fruit clean, was rendered unnecessary. At 
Dalkeith trenching played an important part in producing the 
fine crops there, the cream of which frequently held high posi¬ 
tions as collections at the horticultural exhibitions held in 
Edinburgh. 
Where there are old gardens which have been heavily 
manured, and no systematic method of trenching adopted, it is 
sometimes difficult to escape the evils of drought and vermin 
during adverse seasons, and when judicious trenching is had 
recourse to the bottom soil may be unsuitable at first for seed¬ 
sowing and planting. In such cases we have easily met the 
difficulty by using sifted material from under the potting bench 
or waste soil heap. Once, having undertaken to reuovate a large 
old garden where soil was deep and excellent but wanted renova¬ 
tion by trenching, the labourers employed warned us against 
such an innovation, and what the consequences would be; but 
experience from former cases induced us to trench and ridge 
the vacant spaces during winter. When all was well prepared 
for Carrots, Parsnips, and Onions, the seed was sown and 
carefully covered with fine soil. Portions of untrenched quarters 
were also sown, giving a double chance of success. The latter 
came up vigorously long before the former began to vegetate, 
giving much satisfaction to the workmen, who were not tardy in 
giving vent to “ Sorry that master would not be guided by us ! ” 
As the season went on the crops on the double-dug land came up 
with vigour and made such rapid growth as I had never seen. 
The great height of the tops and the immense size of clean roots 
showed that the right thing had been done—about double the 
value of produce from the trenched ground compared with the 
untrenched do. wa3 secured, and the latter was by no means 
insignificant. Another case on Worcestershire clay and marl, 
where the trenched ground was rolled over li e large boulders, 
hard like rock when dry, and tough like pitch when wet. At 
the same time the surface was matted with obnoxious perennial 
weeds, which were skinned off and turned to the bottom and 
coated over with salt Planting and drill-forming were done by 
aid of spade and pick. Burnt refuse, light soil, and manure 
added to this untoward soil made it as productive as could be 
desired. All the shrubberies were newly planted, like the gardens 
was also new ground. Where trenching was done, and light 
kindly soil put with the trees and shrubs, growth was rapid, 
clean, and vigorous ; on untrenched ground the growth, as might 
be expected, was wiry and stunted.—M. Temple. 
I hope the useful discussion will continue on the manage¬ 
ment of various soils, and let me advise all interested in the 
subject to discuss matters with good feeling, also to confine 
themselves to the plain statement of their own practice, which 
I will endeavour to do as briefly as possible. 
The kitchen garden here was in the worst possible condition 
when I took charge more than five years ago. One part of it is 
clay, and though it is on a hill, water stood in footprints for 
weeks. Upon examination 1 found the subsoil in a saturated 
condition, so that when dug about 18 inches deep water would 
rise. The first work was to drain it, which was done with 4-inch 
main pipes, the rest being 3-inch drains 3 feet deep, as from 
experience I would not use any smaller pipes. After the drain¬ 
ing was completed I commenced turning the ground 2 feet deep, 
placing the second spit of clay into large ridges as the turning 
progressed. When about a quarter of an acre was finished I 
commenced burning the soil in this way. We first procured a 
large piece of wood about 1 foot in diameter, making a hole in the 
centre for the fire. The large piece of wood was fixed 5 or 6 feet 
out of the ground. Seven or eight wood faggots were placed 
round it, then plenty of cord wood or any old refuse wood, packed 
closely to prevent the clay crumbling amongst the centre wood. 
Space was left on one side at the bottom for lighting, but previous 
to placing the faggots we put a good armful of straw or shavings 
round the centre post. The clay is placed on about 9 inches 
thick regularly round, on each layer of clay some small coal or 
breeze is sprinkled, and when finished the heap will look like the 
letter Y upside down _j_. Light it at the base, and when the fire 
has burnt some time the top will gradually sink down; then 
throw some small coal over it and more clay, widening the fire 
if necessary by moving out the base. When these fires are 
properly managed it would surprise a novice to see the amount 
of clay they will burn in a fortnight. 
Upwards of 500 loads were burnt in this way, and afterwards 
I had the 2 feet of soil turned again, well mixed with plenty of 
the burnt clay, which was also forked into the third spit, but 
that was not brought to the surface. The soil is now open and 
porous down to the drains. As much gritty and light refuse 
soil, ashes, &c., as possible was collected and pointed in or spread 
on the surface, which is important in preventing the ground 
puddling in winter and wet weather. This soil, which had pre¬ 
viously absolutely refused to grow anything fit for the table, has 
since produced the best Cauliflowers 1 have ever seen. I have a 
heap now burning, about forty loads, which will come in for 
Vines and Peach borders, plants in pots, &c.; in fact nearly all 
plants thrive in it.—F. H. 
CULTURE OF DOUBLE PRIMULAS. 
All who have to maintain a constant supply of choice flowers 
during the winter months will find the double varieties of Primula 
sinensis most useful. Under generous treatment they are con¬ 
tinually in bloom, and every bud produced is useful. Through 
the late autumn and winter months the plants should be in a 
temperature of 50° to 55°, near the glass, supplying them with 
water carefully, and an occasional dressing of Clay’s, Standen’s, 
or Beeson’s manures. The ventilator must be well regulated, 
and on no account subject the plants to a cold draught. Under 
these conditions the plants will flower freely if they have been 
well prepared the previous summer. 
The propagation of the double Primula is effected by cuttings; 
therefore, as the number of blooms diminishes the plants must 
not be neglected, and they must be assisted in making a healthy 
sturdy growth, as if the divisions are weak good results cannot 
be expected. Towards the end of March slightly stir the surface 
soil, and then give a top-dressing of equal parts of leaf soil and 
loam, with a good addition of silver sand, placing it well about 
the collar of the plants. When water is required apply it through 
a fine-rose watering pot, which will settle the soil. The growth which 
is now made will be sturdy, and by the month of May will be in 
a fit state for propagating. The plants should be turned out of 
the pots, the soil removed carefully from the roots, and the plants 
divided into single crowns ; in some cases roots will be protruding 
about the base of the divisions, these being potted separately. 
Where there are no roots care should be taken that there is a 
heel of hard growth attached. Each cutting must be placed 
firmly in a well drained thumb pot, the soil consisting of equal 
parts leaf soil, loam, and sand. The cuttings when inserted 
should have the heart placed above the soil, and if required each 
cutting must be supported with a small stick to keep it firmly in 
position until rooted For cuttings which have no roots a pinch 
of sand placed about the base of the cutting when being inserted 
is beneficial. 
Plunge the small pots in cocoa-nut fibre refuse in a pro¬ 
pagating case, the bottom heat to range from 75° to 80°, and 
supply sufficient tepid water to settle the soil well about the base 
of the cutting. Shade the case from sun, and keep it closed, but 
the light must be removed early every morning for about an hour, 
which will permit the undue moisture to evaporate. When the 
cuttings are rooted the light can be removed, or they can be 
placed out on a close moist bottom. 
Those divisions which have roots we place by themselves, as 
they do not need to be kept so close, and are fit to be potted 
some time previous to the others. When rooted sufficiently they 
can be placed into a size larger pot, which will give them a good 
start. The soil at this repotting consists of equal parts o tibry 
