116 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 5, 1886. 
removed from the ground after the foliage has withered they must be 
replanted not later than the end of October, as they usually com¬ 
mence their growth at an early period. It may also be grown in pots, 
and in this case may be protected in a frame during the winter months. 
Seeds are generally ripened, by which, as well as by offsets, it may be 
increased. The seeds are best sown as soon as ripe, but in that case the 
young plants must be kept in a frame through the winter. If the seed is 
preserved until spring, it will, however, vegetate without much trouble, 
aided by a little heat. 
The genus Calochortus, as arranged by Mr. J. G. Baker in his 
Monograph on Tulipese, includes twenty-one species classed under four 
subgenera. The present species and the closely allied C. pulchellus, with 
yellow flowers, are the only two having globose drooping perianths, the 
rest having their flowers erect.—W. T. 
FORCING CAULIFLOWERS IN POTS AND PLANTING 
OUT IN PITS AND FRAMES. 
During the last five years I have been very successful with Cauli¬ 
flowers both in pots and planted out. I have tried several sorts, but 
have come to the conclusion that none surpasses Yeitch’s Extra Early 
Forcing. For the earliest batch I sow a pinch of seed in a pan, employ¬ 
ing light loamy soil with a little burnt earth to prevent the young 
plants “ damping off,’’ which they are very liable to do if neglected. 
They are placed on a shelf in an early vinery. The seedlings are soon 
in rough leaf, when they are very carefully lifted and pouted singly 
in small 60’s, using the same kind of soil. They are then returned to 
the same quarters until they have made a few roots, just enough to 
reach the side of the pot. They are next removed to a shelf in a cool 
house, from which frost is excluded by means of an old-fashioned flue. 
A fire is lighted by the man on duty at the least sign of sharp frost. At 
other times no fire heat is used, but every ray of sunshine is admitted, 
closing the house at 2 p.m., and if this be well charged with moisture 
on a bright spring day it is surprising how quickly these plants fill 
their pots with roots. When this has been accomplished they are trans¬ 
ferred into larger pots, the best size being 24’s. I have grown many 
magnificent Cauliflowers a little larger than cricket balls in 32 s, but 
I prefer a larger pot, because it needs less attention in watering. 
The soil used this time is the same as recommended above, with a 
portion of well-decayed farmyard manure mixed with it, and a layer 
of the same placed over the drainage. In potting sufficient space is 
left to admit of a good mulching of manure just when the head is 
growing. Supplies of water are required several times on a warm 
day, and shading must be carefully attended to. 
This is a most satisfactory way of supplying an employer’s table 
with quickly grown and tender Cauliflowers at an early date. I have 
had them for the dinner parties during the London season, and they 
have been highly appreciated by those whom it is my duty and pleasure 
to serve. The pit or frame-grown plants are raised in the same way, 
but instead of being placed in large pots they are planted out in good 
soil in any pit or frame that can be spared. Sixteen inches apart is 
ample space for them to produce such heads if carefully shaded and 
watered.—G. Merritt, The Hoo Gardens, Welwyn. 
OWENS’ PATENT SPRAY ENGINE. 
Messrs. S. Owens & Co., the eminent hydraulic engineers and manu¬ 
facturers of various kinds of garden pumps, have patented a new engine 
for distributing insecticides in the form of spray. This is beyond all 
question the most economical method, and at the same time effectual, for 
the liquid being so finely broken by a jet of air adheres to the foliage 
and insects like a film of dew—death dew it will doubtless prove to 
millions of pests in gardens, greenhouses, orchards, and Hop gardens. 
As is stated in the prospectus, the chief object of the inventors has 
been to produce a machine capable of economically diffusing an insecticide 
in the form of a fine mist or spray, and to obviate the inconvenience and 
frequent delay caused by the use of a rose or jet of a common garden 
engine or syringe, in which the fine perforations constantly become 
choked by particles in the liquid. The action of the machine is as 
foffows :—The liquid is forced from the cylinder by compressed air. 
The short indiarubber hose-pipe and copper branch-pipe have an inner 
and an outer tube, through which the air and liquid pass separately until 
fchey meet at the end of the jet and produce the spray or mist, and in this 
way a saving of 90 per cent, of the insecticide used is claimed over the 
ordinary method of applying it with the syringe or familiar garden engine. 
That is a great but probably not an exaggerated claim ; and when it is 
remembered that one Kentish Hop and fruit grower expended a thousand 
pounds in softsoap and quassia chips last year, the new economiser will 
presumably meet with general acceptance. 
We have examined the engine, indeed worked it, and can find no 
fault with it. The spray is forced out of the nozzle like a volume of 
smoke, and it “ sticks ” to whatever it is directed. Any length of tubing 
cm be applied, and with the aid of a rod of any required length prepared 
for the purpose, a man can hold the nozzle close to the foliage of Vines and 
between the bunches of Grapes, or to the Roses on the roof of a conserva¬ 
tory, and doctor the thrips or red spider in one case and the aphides in 
the other without a drop of the solution falling on the plants below, but 
in such a case another man or boy would work the pump. For ordinary 
purposes, such as spraying Roses or fruit bushes, two persons are not 
necessary. The engines are made in various sizes, the small ones being 
handy and portable ; for Hop gardens and orchards larger kinds are 
made to be drawn with a horse, these resembling a saddle boiler on 
wheels with a windlass at the end for working the pump. 
Small hand vapourisers are much used for window plants and for dress¬ 
ing an individual specimen, but they are playthings in comparison with 
the invention under notice, which is manufactured as an article of sub¬ 
stantial value and great commercial utility. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Seeds of all kinds must soon be sown. We make our chief list out 
in January, and then extras and specialities follow as we see them adver¬ 
tised. Old seeds kept from last year should not be relied on for impor¬ 
tant crops. If kept in a perfectly dry place and away from insects some 
of them may be good, but we never like to trust to them, and prefer new 
seeds. On the arrival of these they should be unpacked, examined, and 
then placed in a dry position. A box with a lid working on hinges is very 
convenient for holding seed packets, but where they are very numerous 
it is best to have a press containing a number of little drawers. A label 
should be put on the front of each indicating the contents, and as the 
seeds are taken out they should always he put in their proper drawers. 
We have often seen seed packets lying about in all corners of the potting 
shed and fruit room, but this is not economical or convenient. 
Seed Potatoes. —The whole of the early and second early Potatoes 
should be taken in hand. Most of them are beginning to sprout now, and 
if this goes on too far it will prove very injurious. We like all our seed 
to be sprouted, but we do not like the shoots to he long, spindly, and 
white. These are bad ; but the short robust green ones are capital, and 
must be secured. To do this the whole of the seed can be spread out in 
a thin layer, one seed deep, in a cool fully lighted place. The shelves of 
a fruit room are generally suitable. Where the tubers have been all 
heaped together and the sprouts have become long from growing 
through the mass the longest may be rubbed off, but it is a mistake to 
clean the whole of the growths from seed Potatoes at this time. The 
short ones should always be allowed to remain; sprouted tubers are always 
safe to plant, as no blanks follow. 
Tomatoes. —Early fru'ts of these are always valuable. Cuttings rooted 
last autumn should be potted for fruiting ; 10-inch and 12-inch pots are 
very suitable for them. Each plant will produce some dozens of fruits in 
pots of ei'her size. We always grow our earliest Tomatoes in pots, as 
they are very convenient for placing in warm corners or on the back walls 
of vineries and Pine houses. In preparing the soil for them use it very 
rough, and do not put in any natural manure. 1 lb. of Thomson’s Vine 
manure to 1 bushel of soil, or 2 lbs. of Beeson’s bone manure to 1 bushel 
of soil, will produce more robust plants and a greater weight of fine fruits 
than any other manure which can be used. Pot young seedlings and sow 
more seed. As the plants advance in growth rub off all side shoots and 
confine them to one or two main stems. A light sunny position and the 
compost we have recommended above will always produce short-jointed 
fertile growths. 
Jerusalem Artichokes. —These are amongst the most useful of all 
winter root3, and should be more extensively grown than we generally find 
them. Professional cooks know their value, but in small gardens they 
are too much neglected. They always produce a good crop, and are never 
diseased. Old plantations should all be lifted. Collect the roots, and 
select all the best to be put aside for use. The smaller tubers may be 
planted at once in good soil. They may be placed in rows 2 feet apart, 
and 1 foot from set to set. In summer the growths will grow up to 6 feet 
or more in height, and they may be planted in positions where screens 
are wanted. Nothing could be better for purposes of this kind. 
Mint and Tarragon. —Where these are wanted early in spring in a 
green state lift roots of both now. Spread them out in shallow boxes with 
a little soil under and over them, and place them in a temperature of 65° 
or so. In a few weeks they will afford many gatherings. 
Frames. —Continue to make up hotbeds and cover them with frames, 
in which sow Carrots, Radishes, and plant Potatoes. In frames where 
these are coming through the soil or are advanced in growth admit ar on 
all fine days. Cover the glass every night with mats, and increase this 
when it is frosty, but do not allow the coverings to remain on during day 
unless it is very cold, as darkness encourages a tender growth. Cauli¬ 
flower plants which have been wintered in frames or under handlights 
should have plenty of air, so should young Lettuces and any other young 
vegetables intended for planting out. 
Box Edgings. —These exist in many kitchen gardens, and where they 
have grown out of all their original dimensions they should be taken up, 
