124 
JOURNAL OF H0RTICUL1URE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 12, 1835. 
of the plants, and thereby add considerably to the weight of 
the crop. The healthier the growth of the plant the less 
likelihood of insect attacks, and red spider especially will 
not be so troublesome on plants rooting in fresh turf. Mr. 
Taylor, when at Longleat, used squares of turf for all his 
plants, and he grew Strawberries remarkably well, and the 
plan is also practised, I believe, by many other good 
gardeners.— W. Iggulden. 
THE ROCKERY. 
This term has a very wide meaning, and I would not attempt 
to write anything about it were it not that my remarks aro 
intended to refer to it as the proper home for Alpine plants. It 
is difficult to say how a rockery should be constructed, as there 
is so much difference in surrounding circumstances of almost 
every place which should be well considered before it is com¬ 
menced. Two or three general conditions are, however, essential 
to success—viz., thorough drainage, a good depth of loamy soil, 
and a partially sheltered yet open position, by which I mean one 
open to sunlight and air. The size or character of the material 
is of little moment; irregularity certainly is desirable, but in 
positions where an irregular surface does not already exist, it is 
best produced by removing certain portions of the soil and 
placing it in others, rather than building up huge masses of 
masonry. In my opinion anything like geological stratification 
should not be imitated, it serves no useful purpose, and rarely 
represents natural rock arrangement. Solid permanent work is 
desirable. It is essential also that stones laid as special ledges 
for one or more series of Alpines should dip in the right direc¬ 
tion—viz., towards the soil, otherwise instead of moisture 
draining towards the roots it will proceed in the opposite 
direction. Another very important point is the water supply, 
especially where a rockery of huge dimensions is constructed; 
the oversight of this business frequently proves a serious mistake. 
Arrange taps at suitable distances apart, so that a hose can be 
applied and plenty of water be given during dry weather. The 
most successful growers are those who attend thoroughly to this 
item, suggested by a careful study of the surrounding conditions 
of most Alpines under natural conditions. 1 wish strongly to 
advocate the utilisation of various small shrubs for the ornamen¬ 
tation of the alpine garden ; this can be done liberally in most 
places; and to some extent in all. Of course, avoid coarse- 
growing plants; in places where Yuccas flourish they are especi¬ 
ally suitable, as also are Retinosporas and many others. Diver¬ 
sification as much desirable on a properly constructed rockery, 
and it can be enjoyed in that form without prejudice. 
Where alpine plants are largely grown a small rockery in a 
cold frame is a very interesting addendum, and should be the 
home of many rarities which through climatal conditions cannot 
be accommodated outside ; many such I know, and at any time 
there is much of interest in its occupants. It also answers as 
the training home for the larger structure outside ; indeed, in a 
hundred and one ways it will prove invaluable in keeping together 
a choice collection of alpines. Bellglasses or cloches are also 
very serviceable in connection with rockeries for the purpose of 
protecting certain plants through the winter and for covering 
others while in flower; such, for example, as those which come 
early and are thus exposed to many ills, the natural issue of our 
climate. 
I have been induced to write the above remarks because I 
consider the present the very best time to construct new or make 
additions to already existing rockeries. I prefer the early 
months of the year to any other period, because we may assume 
the plants will be in their places by early spring, when they will 
at once start, and although not much can be expected from them 
the first season they will have a long time to establish themselves 
before winter. A few words as to the treatment of old rockeries. 
First let them have a thorough cleaning. Remove all weeds, 
decayed leaves, and other litter which accumulates, and then 
give a good top-dressing. This, in my opinion, is better done in 
autumn than now, as it keeps the plants warm and induces fresh 
root-action, which is the best indication of what we may expect; 
but I have noticed several recently which have not received such 
attention. The best top-dressing material for general work is 
one composed of old hotbed manure, leaf soil, and coarse gritty 
sand in equal proportions. Pass the manure and leaf soil through 
an inch-mesh sieve and mix well with the sand. Apply a dressing 
of this 1^ or 2 inches deep, and the result will fully prove its 
value to the plants, while the appearance is greatly improved. 
For applying the top-dressing it is desirable to break up the 
surface of the old soil with a small hand fork. There are excep¬ 
tional plants to which such a mulching might prove hurtful, but 
not many. Some are marked as fastidious in this respect—for 
instance, I have heard really good culturists say, “Never give 
Gentiana verna leaf mould,” and I have seen the same plant 
doing happily with a good per-centage of that material. Such 
kinds as will not stand the top-dressing described will not object 
to a dressing of sharp sand, which may be sprinkled amongst the 
shoots and round them. No harm, I think, it may be safely 
assumed, can be done, and in most cases much good will accrue. 
Gentiana bavarica offers good evidence on this point, for it 
seems absolutely impossible to grow it successfully unless well 
supported by sand in a cool damp situation; with such treatment 
it towers freely. Many of the Campanulas, Edrianthuses, 
Piimulas, &c., require similar treatment. I wish to recommend 
the introduction where possible of pretty small-growing bulbs. 
Plant them in every available cranny, or between small tufts of 
alpines even; they look especially happy when in flower and at 
no time are they an inconvenience. The price of many bright 
little gems is now so low that they might be extensively employed 
this way, such as Chionodoxa Lucilise, Galanthuses, Ei'ythro- 
niums, Scilla bifolia and its varieties, species and varieties of 
Crocus, &c. Many clumps of these and many other choice bulbs 
might be accommodated on the rockery beneath alight carpeting 
of such plants as Draba azoidea, D. gigas, and many others, so 
that the surface would be furnished all the year, and in season 
with the biightness of the bulbs and supplementary plants, 
without any material prejudicial effect upon each other. Of 
course it is desirable to thin out the carpeting plants occasionally, 
or they may render the life of the bulbs anything but happy. 
Many Anemones, such as A. apennina and its varieties alba and 
blanda, A. Robinsoniana, A. dichotoma, &c., are most desirable 
on the rockery, but they leave a blank for so long in the year 
which is scarcely compensated for even by their modest beauty 
when in liower. Surely we can find some small-growing alpines 
which t will clothe the surface without injury to the Anemones. 
—T. 
CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER. 
[The following essay bv Mr. James Inman, Chapel-Allerton, Leeds, was awarded the 
prize as the best paper on Vegetable Culture in the recent competition of the members 
of the Leeds ProLessional Gardeners’ Friendly Benefit Society for the prizes offered by 
Mr. Henry Oxley.] 
The Cucumber is one of the earliest mentioned vegetables in 
history. It was very extensively used in Egypt, the Romans 
were very partial to it also, and it has consequently been culti¬ 
vated for many centuries. 
The propagation of the Cucumber is effected by means of 
seeds, cuttings, and layers, but that by seeds is most generally 
resorted to. They should be sown in a compost of one-third 
fibrous loam, one-third of peat, and one-third of leaf mould and 
silver sand. They are best sown singly in 8-inch pots, or three 
seeds may be placed in a 6-inch pot, the seeds to be pressed 
gently into the soil to the depth of half an inch. Those sown 
singly are less likely to be injured at the roots when repotted or 
planted out in the beds. The pots should be plunged in a bed 
having a bottom heat of 75° or 80°, and a top heat of about 70°. 
Those sown in December or January will be ready by March or 
April for cutting, and those sown later will be ready proportion¬ 
ately sooner. As the season advances, propagation by cuttings 
is often resorted to when plants are required for winter culture. 
These should be taken from the ends of strong shoots and in¬ 
serted in pots 9 or 10 inches deep, half filled with the compost 
mentioned for seeds, a sheet of glass being placed over them to 
retain the moisture round them until roots are formed. The pots 
should be plunged in a genial bottom heat, and plunged again 
when struck until wanted for planting. I have found them 
strike well in a pan of water placed in the stove and shaded from 
the sun. 
The general method of growing the Cucumber is by means 
of fermenting materials, and the one most in use is fresh horse 
manure from a stable. It should be placed in a heap, thoroughly 
mixed two or three times, allowing several days to elapse between 
the turnings, and if it be too dry a gentle watering might be 
given during the turnings, care being taken not to make it too 
wet; as if that is the case it does not retain the heat for the 
length of time it would if it were only reasonably moist. The 
leaves collected in autumn and kept in a dry place might be 
mixed with the manure, as they help to retain the heat for a 
much longer period than manure alone, especially Oak and Beech 
leaves. After the heap is in a good state of fermentation the 
bed must be formed, the depth to vary according to the time of 
year. The earlier it is made the deeper it should be. After 
marking out the ground, and allowing 6 inches to a foot more 
