190 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 5, 1885. 
■well in a cool house as a warm one, and yet I cannot see that thie should 
make much difference, as we can hardly admit of a house being cool in 
July or August—months in which fruits generally assume their best 
qualities. 1 believe, in the majority of instances, this Nectarine is only 
kept on for its handsome size. It is certainly a very black mark against 
it that it should be thrown out at Drumlanrig, as it is well known that 
splendid results attained in the culture of such fruits at Drumlanrig. Mr. 
Lewis, p. 146, makes a note of its value in America; but although he 
professes to be all in its favour, he gives in to my idea of it more fully 
than I could have expected, as the “ second-rate flavour” which he says 
it possesses is what I object to. I would like to ask Mr. Lewis and 
other Napier partisans why they should grow or recommend a Nectarine 
only second-rate in flavour, when “ first-rate ” flavoured ones require no 
more space or culture to bring them to perfection. A first-rate Nectarine 
is a most delicious fruit ; an inferior one is very unsatisfactory.— 
J. Muir, Margam. 
SELECT ANNUALS FOR STOVE AND 
GREENHOUSE. 
Martynia fragrans. —This resembles, anil is nearly re¬ 
lated to the more popular Gloxinia. It belongs to the natural 
order Pedaliacese, and is one of the handsomest of the genus, 
which consists of seven or eight species. M. fragrans is a native 
of Mexico, and was introduced in 1840, and the genus is named 
in honour of the late Dr. Martyn, formerly Professor of 
botany at Cambridge. Martynia fragrans is of robust habit 
and easy culture, and being an annual there is no anxiety attach¬ 
ing to it in regard to keeping it through the winter, as is the 
case with the tubers of the Gloxinia, and anyone possessing a 
hotbed and greenhouse, or either of the two, may cultivate it 
successfully. The general appearance of the plant is of a strong 
and bold character, possessing slightly glutinous hirsute stems 
and foliage. The flowers are axillary and terminal, exhaling a 
delicate fragrance. It seeds freely, and the pods are curious in 
shape, and are sometimes pickled, but of this I have no personal 
experience. Though the flowers are not so durable as those of 
the Gloxinia, their abundance amply compensates for their 
short duration. 
The seeds may be sown at any time according to the season 
it is desired to have them in flower, but from February to April 
is the most general time for the purpose, and the plants will 
flower from June to October if their requirements are properly 
attended to. In sowing place the seeds, which are very large, 
about 3 inches apart, using soil similar in character to that 
recommended for Tliunbergias, and cover with an inch depth 
of soil. Give a good watering through a rose, and place them 
in the warmest position at command. As soon as the seedlings 
have developed their first pair of ordinary leaves let them be 
carefully transplanted singly into 48-size pots, using a compost 
of loam and leaf mould in equal parts, and a little manure and 
sand added. Place them again in a growing temperature as 
near to the glass as possible in order to encourage a sturdy 
growth. Give them good supplies of water, and in about three 
weeks they will be ready for transferring into 32 or 24-size 
pots, but m most cases the former will be large enough. At 
this potting use loam, leaf mould, and manure in equal pro¬ 
portions, and add sand according to circumstances. Make the 
soil around the old ball moderately firm, and replace them in 
their growing quarters until the blossoms appear, when they 
should be moved into a cool and shady position. Unless it is 
particularly desired to retain the seed pods they should be 
picked off, because they rapidly develope and will exhaust the 
plant proportionately. 
Celosia pyramidalis —This plant belongs to the natural 
order Amaranthacese, and is allied to the Alternanthera, Ama- 
ranthus, Iresine, and Gomphrena, all popular occupants of our 
gardens. The genus embraces about twenty known species and 
varieties, two of which are evergreen shrubs, and the remainder 
stove and greenhouse annuals, mostly natives of the continent 
of Asia. The popular and well-known Cockscomb (C. cristata) 
is a member of the genus, and was introduced from Asia so 
long ago as 1570. There appears to be some doubt as to the date 
of introduction of C. pyramidalis. Sweet, in his “ Hortus 
Britannicus,” gives 1714, whereas Johnson’s Dictionary states 
1820; however, both are agreed as to its native country— 
viz., East Indies, and in any case the plant is not a stranger 
in this country now. The cultivation is very simple. Seed should 
be sown about the end of March or the beginning of April in a 
light compost, and covered with not more than half an inch 
depth of the same soil; give a good watering through a fine 
rose, and place on a hotbed or in a stove, or, failing either, in 
the warmest part of the greenhouse, and as the seedlings grow 
keep them near to the glass, gradually increasing the supply o 
water. When the plants have developed three or four leaves 
let them be carefully transferred into small pots, using a com¬ 
post of a light rich character, such as equal parts of loam, leaf 
soil, dried cow manure, and sand. Return them afterwards to 
a warm and moist atmosphere, and as near to the glass as 
possible. Shade them only to prevent flagging or scorching when 
the sun is bright. In about three weeks they will be ready 
for repotting, and unless large specimens are required pots 
6 inches in diameter will be large enough for all ordinary 
purposes, and at this potting see that the drainage is as perfect 
as possible, for when the pots become filled with roots copious 
supplies of water and occasional stimulants will be required. 
The soil should be richer and more durable, and pressed firmly 
at the final potting. Let the plants be kept in warm quarters 
until their beautiful plumes are developed, when they should be 
placed in a cooler position, such as an ordinary conservatory, 
where their varied colours will be acceptable, and their plumes 
give a welcome variety of outline. 
Torenias. —The next plants to which I wish to draw atten¬ 
tion are the Torenias, and all those who admire the perennial 
Torenia asiatica will also appreciate the equally beautiful 
annual species T. Bailloni and T. Fournieri. The flowers of 
the former are yellow with a purple centre, and those of the 
latter species are a blue, somewhat resembling T. asiatica. The 
genus belongs to the natural order Scrophulariaceae, and con¬ 
sequently is allied to many of popular garden flowers, such as 
the Foxglove, Snapdragon, Toadflax, Mimulus, and Calceolaria. 
Like T. asiatica the species under notice are as well adapted 
for culture in baskets as for pots, being of a pendant habit. 
The leaves are small, and produced in pairs, the flowers spring¬ 
ing from the axils of the leaves. 
All the species in cultivation are impatient of stagnant 
moisture at the roots, but at the same time they all require 
abundant supplies of water, consequently it is necessary, in 
order to achieve even a moderate share of success, to secure 
perfect drainage and use an open soil. 
The seed, which is very small, should be sown early in spring 
in pots or pans that are well drained, and containing 2 or 
3 inches depth of fine soil made level, and watered through a 
fine rose previous to sowing the seed. If it is decided to cover 
the seed with soil great care must be exercised in doing so, 
but anyone who is accustomed to raising Lobelias, Celery, and 
herbaceous Calceolarias from seed will not be likely to err on 
that score. In my own practice I find it the best to never 
cover very small seeds with soil, but after sowing I cut a piece 
of newspaper to fit the outside diameter of the seed pan, and 
then press it gently down on to the surface of the soil, and 
thus leave a margin standing up all round and close to the 
sides of the pan, and if the pan is stood level, as it ought to be 
in any case, the water which is poured on the paper remains 
thereon and keeps the soil underneath constantly moist, and not 
a seed is disturbed. As the seedlings appear the paper can be 
removed at will, and replaced to shade from the sun or too 
strong a diffused light. 
Water the young Torenias previous to transplanting them, 
and, as with Tliunbergias during growth, frequent syringings 
will be beneficial, and will keep red spider in check. Should 
black thrips appear, light and frequent fumigations will destroy 
them, but an extra strong dose of tobacco smoke would, in all 
probability, be as fatal to the Torenias as the thrips. The 
annual Torenias are the most difficult plants to rear and culti¬ 
vate of all that I shall mention in this paper; and if amongst 
my readers there are any amateurs who can boast of never 
having failed with any plant they have yet taken in hand—and 
I know one or two who can truthfully say as much so far—to 
them I heartily commend their culture, and if they only succeed 
in raising and flowering 10 per cent, of the seeds sown, they will 
be amply repaid for their trouble. 
The Anagallis. —Another pretty little plant suitable for 
the decoration of the greenhouse. Three or four species are 
annual, one or two biennial, and the remainder perennial. The 
genus belongs to the same natural order as our lovely Primrose 
and the pretty Cyclamen—viz., Primulacese. The scai'let Pim¬ 
pernel (Anagallis arvensis), is also known as the Poor Man’s 
Weather Glass, and Shepherd’s Barometer, the flowers closing 
on the approach of rain. Besides A. arvensis we have A. 
ccerulea (blue), and A. carnea (flesh colour), from Switzerland, 
and A. indica (blue), from Nepaul. The four varieties will 
grow and flower freely if sown in the open border, they are also 
well worth a place in the greenhouse. Sow the seeds where 
they are intended to remain, either in pots or narrow boxes, 
using soil of a medium textui'e and not too rich. Place the 
pots or boxes in the greenhouse, and as soon as the seedlings are 
