March 5, 1885, ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
199 
cuttings in spring, and little space is taken up by our few stock pi ints in 
comparison with the old plan. At the present time we have a number of 
cuttings ready of Lobelias, Ageratums, &c. ; and our plan is, if we can 
secure a sufficient stock from the first cutting over, in addition to later 
batches from the cuttings now taken off, then the stock plants are at 
once thrown away. If our supply is to be short another crop is taken 
from the old plants, when we are sure not to fail in having enough plants. 
The rooting of these plants is now so generally understood that it would 
seem superfluous to write about it. However, I may just note that 
cuttings always strike best if they have not been grown in too high a 
temperature. It is also wise to increase the beat for striking cuttings. 
The later in the season the more heat may safely be given. The best 
place at this time is to strike cuttings in a propagating pit. This is a 
most useful adjunct to a range of class, very ordinarily left out; but no 
structure will be found to pay better. We have one that is suited for 
flower-forcing during winter, and for growing Melons and Cucumbers in 
summer. We can cover the hotbed pipes with 5s. worth of wire netting, 
fill the meshes with moss, on that place a layer of sand, and have a perfect 
propagating bed. Later on beds of soil are placed for Melons, &c., and 
during winter after the house has been cleared wooden boards make a 
good trellis for plant-forcing. Mr. Muirhead of Paxton, Berwickshire, a 
most enthusiastic grower of flowers, gave me the hint as to the wire 
netting and mo9s. He has a small box fitted over the main pip s from 
the boiler to the greenhouses in the manner indicated, and secured an 
efficient propagating box that many gardeners would be glad to have. I 
have struck cuttings very readily in ordinary boxes, the cuttings into a 
thin layer of sand, panes of glass placed across the tops of the boxes, and 
these on hot pipes. In April nothing is better than an ordinary mild 
hotbed of manure and leaves, covered with common wooden frames and 
sashes. Over the manure a thin layer of leaf soil should be laid, and the 
cuttings dibbled thinly therein. After being rooted the plants can be 
gradually hardened and left until wanted for planting out. I have rooted 
cuttings up to May in this way, and they make capital plants. 
Large numbers of plants are raised from seeds. Of these Yeitch’s 
Lobelia speciosa should be sown at once. This strain is so true and fine 
that it is quite as reliable as are those struck from cuttings. East 
Lothian Stocks should also be sown now. The point to be guarded 
against with these fine plants is damping when small. This can always 
be obviated by abstaining from watering the young seedlings over the 
foliage, and by transferring them to cold frames when the seed leaves are 
well developed. Chamrepeuces, Tobacco, Acacia lophantha, and slow- 
growing plants generally should also be sown soon, but many seeds are 
sown far too early. Any plant that has time to become strong and well 
established by late sowing, as in April, should most decidedly be left till 
then. The results are far better plants with less trouble in transplanting, 
&c. A healthy unchecked plant, though smaller, will leave larger, though 
stunted ones, far behind in the end.—B. 
NORTH AMERICAN ORCHIDS. 
Perhaps in these days, when the Orchid mania is raging, and the utter¬ 
most parts of the earth are “ investigated ” to discover new species of this 
wonderful flower wherewith to adorn the Orchid houses of wealthy 
amateurs, a few remarks about our native varieties may interest those 
who, not having an abundance of this world’s goods, are fain to content 
themselves with such specimens of the genus as inhabit the fields or groves 
of our native land. 
The various kinds of Cypripedium are among the most showy of 
Orchidaceous plants in this section, and the beauty of their blossoms rivals 
that of some of their more favoured sisters occupying conspicuous places 
in the greenhouse. The Cypripedium acaule, with its large purple flower 
nodding on the slender graceful scape, is a veritable floral gem, and the 
more common Cypripedium pubescens, or Indian Moccasin Flower, with 
its golden blossom, so like a gigantic Calceolaria, is a plant which no one 
who love3 the wild beauties of the forest would pass unheeded. The love¬ 
liness of both the preceding species pales, however, beside that of the 
Cypripedium spectabile, or Tall Lady’s Slipper, a denizen of swamps in this 
part of the world. 
There is something marvellous in the appearance of these great white 
flowers, which have markings on the inner surface, delicate as if the tiny 
flecks of colour were laid on with a brush held by a fairy’s hand. The 
large sepals of these blossoms are white, or nearly so, which adds greatly 
to their beauty. Indeed, when looking at a cluster from a little distance we 
should not find it very difficult to imagine that the angel of the flowers 
had appeared to mortal vision. 
The Orchis spectabilis, or Showy Orchid, is occasionally found in our 
woods, and is described by Gray as “ producing two oblong ovate shining 
leaves, 3 to 5 inches long, and a few-flowered five-angled scape, 4 to 
7 inches high.” This little Orchid is one of my favourite wild flowers, and 
the bare thought even of its strange and sweet perfume takes me back to 
the days of my early childhood, when it was pointed out to me and the 
name impressed on my memory by my father, who was an enthusiastic 
botanist, and whose companion I waa in many a long and weary tramp in 
pursuit of floral treasures, when the distance was so great that the small 
member of that botanical fraternity had to be ignominiously picked up and 
carried in order to facilitate the journey. Orchis spectabilis can be flowered 
in the house, if removed from its native habitat in early spring and potted 
in a proper manner. I do not know that I used anything but clear leaf 
mould for the specimen I procured. I remember finding a small species of 
the Orchis, the name of which I do not now recollect, which, I think, is 
•are in this locality, as my father had never seen it before, which had a 
little spike of flowers of such a shadowy appearance that I was reminded 
of the skeleton flowers or leaves which were made up into the “ phantom 
souquets,” so popular years ago. I thought that the “ Phantom Orchis ” 
vould be an exceedingly appropriate name for th6 plant, but perhaps the 
one who named it was of a more practical turn of mind, for I am quits 
sure it bore no such startling appellation. 
The Goodyera pubescens is another interesting, though not very showy, 
member of the Orehidacere. Its chief beauty lies in the leaves, which are 
small and close to the ground, being radical and having short petioles. 
Any lack in size, however, is atoned for by their exquisite colour and mark¬ 
ings. They look as if made of dark green lustrous silk, covered with a 
network of white lace. This little woodland beauty can be easily transferred 
to the house by giving it leaf mould to grow in, aDd a very little care and at¬ 
tention. Although there is said to be “ not less than 1500 species ” of the 
Orchis tribe.—it is “ sparingly represented in the United States ”—still, there 
are enough to afford many a pleasant and profitable hour to those who care 
to look for them in order to discover their beauties and peculiarities, and 
to whom an Orchid is not simply a showy flower brought from a far country 
at a great price, but as one of the wonderful works of that Beneficent Being 
whose every creation we may admire, even though we do not comprehend. 
For when we have analysed and examined, and pondered and speculated, 
how much nearer are we to the mystery of existence that lies wrapped up in 
every tiny bud and waves in every blade of grass that is tossed by the 
passing breeze ?—H. R. L., Hoosac (in Vick's Magazine). 
Repotting Zonal Pelargoniums. —Your contributor who furnishes 
“ Work for the Work” omitted to refer to the necessity of repotting Zonal 
Pelargoniums that have been wintered as small conservatory, sitting-room, 
or window plants, and that have had little water during the past four or five 
months. At present, with the best care, they are either waterlogged, with 
the soil wet and cold, or where it is dry and porous water will not remain in 
it. There must be thousands of your readers with their favourites in this 
state, and the only remedy seems to be to give them a fresh start with new 
soil and fair play, recommencing with the season of growth, which for them 
may be said to begin in March. This will apply to plants that have been 
flowering the whole winter, and that must now have the soil exhausted, and 
equally to those as above that havo not, but are expected to do so during 
May and June. The latter require somewhat different treatment. The 
roots must not be much disturbed, but turned out on the hand, the drainage 
scanned, and to assist the future flowering give them a pot slightly larger. 
The ball of earth need not be disturbed, and consequently not the slightest 
check will be sustained. The temperature here is over 50° in the open air 
now ; so under similar circumstances all the plants will require is to be put 
into a cold pit, frame, or greenhouse until vigorous growth recommences. 
Most people have a certain object in view, some growing for winter decora¬ 
tion, according to Mr. Cannell’s system, in warm, light span-roofed houses, 
where no other plants equal Zonals in warmth and brilliancy of colour¬ 
tinting. Those I write for generally have no such facilities, and are satis¬ 
fied in their suburban villas and town residences to have good blooms in 
summer and autumn.—W. J. M., Clonmel. 
SSI WORK foi\the WEEK. v5i 
sSmRS 
V'SH! 
j/tPI ® 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
March is a busy month in the kitchen garden. Seeds of almost every 
crop grown may be sown this month, and many plants require attention. 
Dry weather and free working soil are two of the most favourable 
conditions which any vegetable-grower can desire at this season, and it 
would be found more advantageous to leave seeds unsown until April 
rather than put them in when the soil is too wet and uDgenial. The 
greater part of the secret of successful vegetable-growing rests in getting 
the seeds well in, and too much attention cannot be paid to this. 
Spring-sown Onions. —March is the month for sowing these, and 
the full crop should be sown on the first favourable opportunity. Dig the 
ground deeply, manure it thoroughly, and sow on a dry day. Do not 
make beds, it is a waste of ground, and no gain to the produce. Open 
drills 15 inches apart and 1J inch deep. Sow very thinly, and then 
cover with a mixture of fine soil, sand, soot, and anything which will 
favour free germination and ward off grubs. If enough of this material 
can be had for covering, do not put any of the soil which came out of the 
drills over the seeds, but level it between the rows with a rake, and roll 
the whole of the piece to settle the soil and make it firm for the young 
plants coming through. Onions cannot be grown in too firm soil, as they 
bulb well in it, and are not liable to be injured by insects. Soil with 
much clay in it will do for Onions, but none of this should rest over the 
seed. At present we are sowing Webb’s Improved Banbury, James’ 
Keeping, Bedfordshire Champion, and Giant Zittau in large quantities. 
Parsnips. —The Student is a fine quality variety, and so is Carter’s 
Maltese, and both should be sown for a main crop as soon as possible. 
Shallow soil is of no use for Parsnips. The best Parsnip-grower iu our 
district is a railway signalman, who grows his roots on tbe Great Western 
embankment; and as he makes a speciality of them, he trenches the soil 
3 feet deep, and secures splendid roots. All growers may not be able to 
trench so deeply, but the soil must be worked 18 inches deep at least if 
good roots are desired. Ground trenched last year may do this time by 
digging or forking over the surface. Moderately rich soil is the best. 
A free mixture of ashes amongst it does no harm, but rough freffi manure 
should not be put in at present, as it will not be decayed by the time the 
roots descend, and it would cause many of them to become forked. Open 
the drills 18 inches or 20 inches apart, 2 inches deep, and sow very thinly. 
We have sometimes put a few seeds down 1 foot apart in the drills where 
