200 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 5, 1885. 
we wished the plants to he, and did not sow along the whole of the drills. 
This saves seed, and answers very well, especially when a few handfuls 
of the manure used for covering the Onions is placed over the seed, then 
rake and roll it down. 
Celery. —The whole of the seed to produce plants for the earliest 
crops should be sown, but there are few things in which growers make a 
greater mistake with than this, as 1 oz. of seed is generally ordered in the 
first place, and then as many plants are raised as would plant out an acre 
or more of land. We find a quarter of an ounce ample seed to produce a 
very large supply, and a sowing made in an 8-inch pot or a cutting box 
will supply hundreds of plants. This is enough to sow at present. Good 
soil must be used for the young seedlings, and germination and rearing 
should take place in a temperature of 60°. We have sown our early 
Celery on a hotbed, but prefer the pot plan. 
Garlic and Shallots. —These can be planted out. Select sound 
medium-sized bulbs of last year’s growth, and plant them out in rows 
1 foot apart, with 6 inches from bulb to bulb in rich but light soil, and in 
a sunny position. The bulbs should almost be buried in the soil, and if a 
little sea or river sand is placed round each it will assist them. 
Potato Onions. —These can be treated in the same way, but a little 
more space must he allowed between the sets. 
Potatoes. —Early kidney varieties may be planted out on warm 
borders and along the bottom of walls, but planting main early crops 
should be delayed for a time. Ventilate those gaining maturity in frames 
freely, and do not allow them to be injured by fro3t. Admit abundance 
of air to all seed tubers which are sprouting. 
Brussels Sprouts. —The main crop of these should be sown in a 
warm position in the open. The seed and young plants are very hardy, 
and nothing will check them now. We generally sow the seeds in drills 
across a narrow border, and cover them with a little of our Onion mixture. 
Leeks. —These may be raised in heat with the Celery where they are 
wanted for exhibition, but for general purposes and use next winter sow 
in the open at the same time and in the same way as the Brussels 
Sprouts. 
Radishes. —A small handful of seed of Wood’s Early Frame variety 
should be sown broadcast on the warmest position in the garden. Cover 
with half an inch of fine soil, and the produce will be found very useful 
in April and May. 
Rhubarb. —Where new plantations of this are to be made begin at 
once and finish as soon as possible. Dig deeply, manure heavily, lift up 
the old roots, select the best pieces and plant these. They must be put in 
from 3 feet to 4 feet apart each way. and so deep that only the crown can 
he slightly seen on the surface. Young seedlings may be treated in the 
same way, and these are better than the old cut pieces. 
Seakale. —New plantations may also be made, old crowns with many 
side shoots attached should be lifted, each crown being cut with part of 
the stem attached, and plant these to form fresh stock. These pieces will 
make good plants by autumn, but they are hardly so good as seedlings, 
which should be transplanted where too thick. A deep, rich, cool soil 
always produces good Seakale. Roots which were taken up some time 
ago for forcing can be planted again as soon as the crowns have been 
hardened in cold frames. 
Kidney Beans. —Give those bearing a heavy crop abundance of 
liquid manure, keep those in bloom in a dry atmosphere until the fruit is 
formed. Put in a large quantity of seed, as sowings now will produce 
pods in April and May, when large hatches can generally be easily 
grown. 
Tomatoes. —Do not allow those fruiting to form many side shoots. 
Pot successional plants. Sow seed for the open air supply of plants, and 
if the early plants are good kinds insert the shoots taken off a3 cuttings. 
We prefer them to seedlings. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. —Since the introduction of large quantities of Pine Apples into 
the English market many growers have discontinued their culture; but as 
the supplies of foreign fruits have been chiefly confined to the winter 
season the cultivation of Pine Apples for the London or summer season 
has become a matter of some moment, hence growers are able to dispose of 
the fruit during the summer months at fairly remunerative prices. Amongst 
summer-fruiting varieties the Queen is still unrivalled on account of its 
excellent quality, and because good fruits can be had in a period of 
eighteen months from the starting point. The plants which are to give 
the subsequent summer supply of fruits are best arranged in two sections, 
the first operation being a selection of the most vigorous of the antumn- 
potted suckers which have been kept gently growing throughout the 
winter months. These plants are placed into 10 or 11-inch pots, and 
plunged into a bottom heat of 90°. The second plants are those which 
are started now, as soon as they have formed good roots and before they 
become matted around the sides are transferred into pots of the size named 
above, and afterwards treated like the first. The modern system has 
greatly reduced the time hitherto occupied in Pine-growing ; nevertheless, 
unremitting attention under the present system is required to secure the 
best fruits. Keep the night temperature at 60° to 65°, and 70° in the day- 
lime from fire heat, with 10° to 15° rise under the influence of sun heat. 
Where rootless suckers are placed keep the atmosphere moist and close, 
and do not supply water until the roots show at the sides of the pots. 
Continue the treatment before advised in other compartments, and if 
favoured with sunny weather make the most of it by closing early, and be 
more liberal in lightly sprinkling the plants, avoiding, however, such as 
may be in flower at the time. 
Strawberries in Pots. —Where plants have set a good crop of fruits 
which have been thinned advantage should he taken of the first opportunity 
to remove them to a house with a temperature of 60° to 65° at night and 70° 
to 75° by day artificially, as the fruits swell best in a high moist atmosphere 
until they are changing colour, when a drier atmosphere is necessary to 
prevent spot and insure high flavour. Grown under those conditions the 
skin is much clearer and the colour brighter than when ripened slowly. 
Feed liberally during the swelling period with tepid liquid manure, and, 
whilst being careful not to give too much water, any deficiency will cause 
a check in the swelling and give a deadness to the fruit instead of the 
bright gloss so much prized. Keep successional batches well supplied 
with water, and fumigate if there be any aphides on the trusses before 
the flowers expand. Admit air freely when the plants are in bloom, and 
brush them with a feather or smail plume of Pampas Grass in the 
brightest part of the day, air having been admitted some time previously. 
Thiu the fruits as soon as the most promising sets can be distinguished, 
and avoid overcropping. Guard against cold drying currents of air 
coming directly into contact with the fruits, as this will sometimes cause 
them to become dry and hard, not swelling afterwards ; besides, the fruit 
so affected has a brown rusty appearance, and is worthless. Continue to 
introduce fresh batches of plants as opportunity offers, choosing such 
kinds as Mr. Radclyffe, James Veitch, President, Dr. Hogg, and British 
Queen, with Cockscomb, which will succeed each other, and are all noble 
fruits, the last four being par excellence in flavour. The present is also 
a good time to place Strawberries in pots in late Peach houses and 
orchard houses. 
Melons. —Plants growing in the Melon house should be stopped so 
soon as they have reached the third or fourth wire of the trellis, the wires 
generally being 8 inches apart. The shoots resulting from the stopping 
may be trained horizontally to the wires, and if they do not show fruit at 
the second or third joint stop them at those points of growth, and rub off 
every alternate lateral on opposite sides of the Vine to prevent over¬ 
crowding. Plants that were stopped some time back, and are growing in 
heated pits, will now have several growths, of which three or four may 
be selected, two in the front and two at the back, all superfluous ones 
being removed, training those retained regularly over the surface of the 
bed, and stopping them when they have reached to within a foot of their 
allotted space, which will result in sub-laterals or fruit-bearing shoots. 
If these are formed very thickly on the first laterals or main shoots rub 
the others off on opposite sides. Fertilise the blossoms on fine days when 
the pollen is dry, and secure as far as possible a rather dry atmosphere 
while the plants are in flower, and until they have set their fruits. Stop the 
shoots one joint beyond the fruits, and when these are swelling reduce to 
one to each main shoot, or three or four on a plant, and as evenly disposed 
upon it as practicable. Commence ventilating at 75°, increasing it as the 
temperature progresses, keeping this through the day at 80° to 85° from 
sun heat, closing at 85°, running up to 90°, with plenty of atmospheric 
moisture. Maintain a night temperature of 65° to 70°, and 70° to 75° by 
day, the bottom heat ranging from 75° to 85°. Add some soil to the 
hillocks as soon as the roots protrude through the sides, being careful to 
have it warmed, and tread it firmly. Successional plantings will need 
prompt attention as the plants become fit, and successional sowings made 
in accordance with the probable demands according to the requirements 
of individual establishments. The linings of dung-heated frames must 
be duly attended to, using only sweetened material, as crude material not 
infrequently causes irreparable mischief. 
Cucumbers. —Plants in full bearing will need copious supplies of 
weak liquid manure, and where the drainage is efficient and the roots in 
good condition, there will be little fear of applying it too frequently. The 
night temperature should range from 65° to 70°, though on very cold 
nirhts 5° less will be more safe, 70° to 75° by day artificially, and 80° to 
85° with sun heat, closing at 85° and rising up to 90°, with plenty of 
moisture in the house, keeping the evaporation troughs filled with liquid 
manure. Gradually remove old lateral growths and old leaves, and 
replace them with young shoots pushing from the leading shoots, and this 
duly attended to will provide for a good successional supply of fruit. In 
tying the young shoots leave sufficient space in the ligatures for tb.eir 
swelling, and train them evenly and not too thickly, leaving sufficient 
space for their exposure to light and air, and thereby insure a thoroughly 
solidified growth. 
Young plants turned out in hillocks or ridges should be stopped when 
they have reached the third or fourth wire of the trellis, and the shoots 
resulting must be tied in as they advance in their proper positions, being 
careful not to crowd them, and do not be in a hurry to take fruit from 
them, or only in very moderate quantity at first. Add some warmed 
soil to the sides of the hillock as the roots protrude, and continue this 
until the allotted space is filled. See that dung-heated frames have proper 
attention in liming, and should there be any fear of rank steam arising it 
will be the safest plan to tilt the lights a little at night to allow of its 
escaping. Fermenting material should be kept in readiness for that 
purpose, and also for making fresh beds. Make successional plantings 
and sowings according to the requirements. Provide sufficient night 
covering of mats or other material. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stove Ferns. —The Ferns grown in this department may mw have a 
top-dressing over the soil, or be potted if they need if. "When plants have 
once been placed in large pots, and it is not necessary to increase their 
size, they will do well in the same size for several years, provided they 
are judiciously supplied with stimulants during the growing season. With 
young stock the case is different if it is desired to grow them into a larger 
size as rapidly as possible, for these will need potting annually and often 
