March 12, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
205 
12 
TH 
Royal Society at 4.30 r.M. 
13 
F 
Quekett Club at 8 P.M. 
14 
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Royal Botanic Society at 8.45 r.M. 
15 
SUN 
4th SUNDAY IN Lent. 
16 
M 
17 
Tu 
18 
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Society of Arts at 8 P.M. 
LILACS FOR FORCING. 
HERE Lilacs are required in quantity for cut¬ 
ting and decoration a judicious system of pre¬ 
paration should be practised. If this is done 
to) on the principle that will be detailed a good 
supply for both purposes can be insured annu¬ 
ally. Unfortunately in many gardening esta¬ 
blishments a very loose and careless method of 
preparation is practised. In many instances 
no real system is followed, for the plants re¬ 
quired are lifted from the shrubbery borders, forced, and then 
turned out again to die or recruit themselves as best they 
can. Such practices cannot be too strongly condemned, 
for in addition to the destruction of many plants and the 
enfeebled health of others the beauty of the shrubbery borders 
suffers in consequence. Plants lifted from the open borders 
are often large ungainly specimens that almost require special 
places in which to force them, and even when in flower they 
cannot be taken into positions where they would be appre¬ 
ciated until the whole of their flowers are used if required 
for cutting, as they have generally bare unsightly stems with 
the flowers only on the extremity of the shoots. 
Plants of the most suitable size for forcing to supply cut 
flowers are bushes that do not exceed 4 feet in height. 
Bushy plants of this description can be placed in pots of a 
convenient size and readily forced in almost any house or 
position, which is not the case with those of very large size. 
In addition they can be employed in the conservatory or 
other structures kept gay while the flowers are cut without 
proving objectionable, and thus they are made to answer two 
purposes. "When plants are required solely for decorative 
purposes in small pots they should be grown on the same 
principle as those little budded specimens that are annually 
imported from the continent in autumn. It has been said 
that it is impossible to grow plants to set their buds and 
flower with the same freedom as imported plants; but such 
is a great mistake, for our plants grown in that way have 
flowered as well as any imported plants. 
The Persian varieties of Lilac are useless for forcing. 
They are comparatively scentless, and will not last long when 
cut. The variety known as Charles X. is well adapted for 
forcing either in the light or dark for the supply of white 
flowers. Next to this is the large-flowered coloured variety 
commonly grown in gardens ; it can be forced freely and 
does well in the dark. White-flowered varieties are of little 
use for forcing, the flowers having generally a greenish 
appearance. 
To prepare Lilacs satisfactorily for forcing they should 
be lifted every alternate year. The plants are soon ruined 
if subjected to forcing annually, but when given a season’s 
rest they recruit themselves and continue in health for many 
years. When this system is practised double the number 
of plants must be cultivated that are required for one year, 
then a batch of well-prepared plants can be lifted annually. 
They should be grown in the open borders in a sunny airy 
position in moderately rich soil, and I have found them do 
No. 246 .—Vol. X., Third Ser es. 
well in light as well as heavy soils. Great care must be 
taken that they are not shaded by trees, or the buds may fail 
to set freely. Plants lifted with plenty of roots and earth 
attached and transplanted at the present time would set buds 
fairly well to be of service for forcing another season. It is 
getting rather late for planting, but where good roots can be 
insured it may safely be done, and the plants will make 
satisfactory growth provided they are syringed for a week or 
two, and kept watered at their roots during dry weather. 
Lilacs should be slightly cut back after they are planted, 
which induces strong vigorous shoots about 1 foot in length, 
and from these the most and best flowers are produced. 
Prune annually to keep them for many years of a suitable 
size for the purpose. Those that have been forced are pruned 
directly the flowers have been cut or are faded, one pair of 
buds only being left on the previous season’s wood ; by this 
means all the tender foliage that may have started during 
the forcing is removed, and they are gradually hardened, and 
are then planted outside directly the weather is favourable. 
The season after forcing the growth is not very strong, but 
they establish themselves, and the growths made are again 
pruned after the foliage has fallen. The following season 
these plants make strong growth, and will be ready for lifting 
directly the leaves have fallen. When lifting the plants for 
potting as many fibry roots as possible should be crammed 
into the pots. Too strong and luxuriant growth must not be 
encouraged, or the wood will not ripen thoroughly. 
Young plants suitable for decoration in G and 8 inch pots 
similar to those imported annually are raised in the first 
instance by budding or grafting. Any strong- growing, kinds 
will do for stocks which are raised from cuttings of ripened 
wood inserted in autumn or winter or from root cuttings, the 
Lilac being very profuse in throwing suckers. The stocks after 
they are once rooted soon grow freely enough for budding 
or grafting the same as Apples and Pears. The former 
should be first practised by inserting a bud of Charles X., 
on both sides of the stock directly opposite and about 4 inches 
above the ground. These may be left until early spring, 
when any that have missed may be regrafted. If the scion 
has one wood bud it will be ample, one being placed on each 
side the same as the buds. In early spring the stock can be 
cut off close to the buds, and vigorous growth will follow. 
The continental plants are all established in pots, and many 
of them appear as if they were potted in autumn with the 
buds established ready for starting into growth to form 
flowering shoots the following season. The growths issuing 
from the buds are allowed to extend some length, and are 
then shortened, and the lateral growths, which are six or 
eight in number, form the flowering shoots. All are not pre¬ 
pared thus, for some have been cut hard back, and have 
evidently taken another year in their preparation, which 
course I shall recommend, as plants that will flower with 
certainty cannot be produced in this country in one season. 
The buds and grafts must be allowed to grow the first season 
undisturbed, the same as maiden Apples or Pears, and 
attain as much strength as possible. These must be care- 
fully lifted in early autumn before the leaves fall, and be 
potted in good fibry loam and one-seventh of manure in 
6 or 8-inch pots, according to their size and strength. 11 
lifted as soon as the wood is ripe, and some time before the 
foliage falls, they will make roots in their pots and become 
partially established before winter. The soil must be pressed 
as firmly as possible into the pots, the plants plunged in 
a shady position, and the foliage syringed two or three times 
daily. By this care in autumn a large quantity of fresh 
roots will be formed, which will assist the plants wonder¬ 
fully in starting vigorously the following spring. 
The winter treatment is very simple, for the plants can 
remain plunged outside, or they can be placed in a cold 
frame. Any time during the wflnter—say in January the 
plants can be pruned, leaving about 4 inches of the wood 
made above the union with the stock. These can be 
No. 1902 .—Vol. LXXII., Old Series. 
