206 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 1J, 1856. 
plunged in a warm sunny position and grown outside until 
they have ripened their wood and set their flower buds in 
autumn. The plants will produce from six to eight or more 
shoots, varying in length from 8 inches to 1 foot. If more 
than the latter number are produced they should be removed. 
Leaving the plants outside is preferable for those that are 
required for forcing the second year—say the weakest plants 
—while *he others may be started in cold frames, thus 
affording a longer season’s growth. In good seasons the 
plants do not need this care, for they will set flower buds 
freely enough if subjected to outdoor treatment. When in 
frames they are brought forward as cool as possible, merely 
being protected from cutting winds and spring frost. Those 
started in frames are grown hardily, and when the weather is 
favourable and frost past the plants are plunged in a sunny 
position. The soil around the roots at plunging time should 
be in a moist condition, and a showery day must be selected 
for the operation. The past summer was remarkably dry, 
and plants pluDged in January and February grew strongly 
and set abundance of flower buds, but were never watered, 
thus showing the great saving of labour effected. 
When plunged Lilacs often root through the hole in the 
bottom of the pots and over the top as well. At lifting time 
the whole of the roots outside the pots are removed, and we 
have not found the slightest injury result. The plants are 
lifted out of the soil and the roots cut off in autumn, when 
the wood is well ripened before the foliage falls. They are 
left outside until frost, when they are brought under glass 
ready for forcing. 
These dwarf specimens are pruned close back after 
flowering and started in the same way as the bush plants for 
cutting, and then plunged outside. They do not make a 
strong growth, but some of them would flower fairly well if 
required to do so. In early autumn, if they need potting, 
this is done before the leaves are off. In 10-inch pots they 
remain healthy for a long time, giving an annual top-dressing 
of rich artificial material and a little artificial manure. From 
these pots they are planted out, as described, for the supply 
of cut flowers. In every instance care must be taken to 
remove as many suckers from the roots as possible. 
Those who have not time to graft or bud the plants, and 
want flowering specimens while home-worked ones would be 
in preparation, should purchase sufficient for two seasons and 
then prepare their own as described. The batch purchased 
for the first year could be prepared for flowering again in the 
third season. 
Few plants can be forced into flower with such ease as 
the Lilac, for it will bear any heat. The closer and warmer 
the atmosphere in which the plants are forced the paler and 
lighter-coloured the flowers are. If forced in strong heat in 
a pit without admitting air, and a double thickness of mats 
placed over the lights, the flowers will be nearly white. When 
the flowers are wanted of their natural colour they should be 
allowed to expand under cool conditions. It is remarkable 
that, however high the temperature may be in which Lilacs are 
forced, they do not flag when removed to a cool structure. 
The cooler the house in which the flowers are developed the 
more fragrance they possess. 
White Lilac flowers are produced by forcing the plants in 
a dark place, such as the Mushroom house, but early in the 
season more heat must be employed than is maintained in 
this structure. — Wm. Bardney. 
YOUNG GARDENERS. 
In continuing my remarks I am very anxious that all under 
gardeners who read them may take them in the same spirit in which 
they are written, and may not think I am taking too much upon 
myself. It is my earnest desire that in the future we may hear less 
of “ degeneracy ” than has been the case in the past. This desire 
has led me to write the following. 
It seems to me that our duty to those under whom we serve is to 
be obedient at all times, even though this may at times seem to involve 
a sacrifice of principle. I think we too often forget that a man who 
has spent twenty or more years in the profession has had opportuni¬ 
ties for testing the suitability of certain means to bring about certain 
ends which have never been ours. We ought always to remember 
that the head gardener is responsible in the event of failure and not 
ourselves. 
And now a word on another subject. Many young men when 
reproved, be it ever so justly, make a point of returning an answer, 
frequently" an impertinent one. I have always observed that such a 
young man seldom makes a long stay in any establishment where 
discipline is deemed of any importance. The man who at the out¬ 
set of his career makes up his mind to cheerfully obey all orders, 
starts with a very good prospect of success. As a rule, head gardeners 
have troubles enough without this as an additional one. 
Next as to our duty to one another and to ourselves. In speaking of 
this I need not say anything about faking an interest in our work, for 
as every young man knows, this is the first condition of success. No 
young gardener can ever hope to rise in his profession unless he 
makes up his mind to do everything, be it crocking a pot or stoking 
a fire, as well as it is possible for it to be done. This has been urged 
over and over again in our Journal, and thus requires no enlarging 
upon here. 
My experience of bothy life leads me to say that many young men 
do not utilise their spare time to the best advantage. During the 
winter months there are two or three hours every evening which 
might generally be spent in acquiring knowledge which is of great 
value in after life. There is drawing, freehand and geometrical, and 
numerous other subjects which I need not enumerate. It is some¬ 
times difficult, in a bothy where there are several young men, to 
obtain that quiet which is so essential to the pursuit of these studies, 
but we can generally effect our purpose by the exercise of a little 
tact and patience. And then, again, there is reading. How much 
we can improve our minds by reading the horticultural journals 
which are now so numerous and so good. I do not mean scanning 
the pages, but studying, and taking note of, what we read. 
Your correspondent, “ Sylvanus ” (page 9), gave us some excellent 
advice on this point. 
In conclusion, I would respectfully urge my fellow under 
gardeners to keep from spending their time in profitless amusements. 
In most bothies there is one black sheep who will do his best to lead 
all the others astray ; but if we keep in the right path we shall be 
amply repaid in the long run. In these days of high pressure in 
gardening, as in all other vocations, the eye and the hand require to 
be in a healthy condition, and this is not to be effected by spending 
one's time in questionable amusements. 
Finally, let us all do our best to prove that there is really no 
degeneracy ” in the existing race of young gardeners, and that when 
our seniors shall have passed away there shall be among us some who 
are capable of worthily filling their places.—T. C. D., Herts. 
STORING APPLES. 
I WAS very pleased to see at page 107 a few useful hints from Mr. 
Bunyard on this subject. There is not, I think, the least doubt of the 
truth of his statement that we do generally gather not only early Apples, 
but also the late varieties—as well as Pears—too soon, and before they 
are thoroughly ripened, with the result that they shrivel, even after the 
most favourable seasons for ripening, and although stored in the most 
perfect fruit room. 
Mr. Ingram of Belvoir is one of the few gardeners who has fully 
recognised and appreciated the advantage to be derived from late gather¬ 
ing, and there are, perhaps, few fruit stores that can compete with his 
at the close of the season for the abundance of its plump well-kept choice 
fruit. I have more than once observed the trees both on the walls and in 
the orchards there hung with fruit for weeks after everyone else had 
stored theirs; and on one occasion several years ago I remember going 
through the garden very late in autumn, and seeing the trees and fruit in 
the early part of the day thickly covered with hoar frost, a condition 
which would have alarmed less experienced and less acute observers. 
The gardens and orchards there are certainly in a sheltered position, and 
the soil is of a very stiff nature, both of which conditions are undoubtedly 
favourable to late hanging. The late Mr. Tillery of Welbeck was also a 
great advocate for late gathering, as was also Mr. Ingram of Frogmore in 
days gone by, both of whom were acknowledged to be first-class fruit 
cultivators. In exposed Dositions or on shallow dry soils it may be im¬ 
practicable to keep the fruit on the trees so long ; but even in such situa¬ 
tions it is better to lose a few fruits by falling than to gather them so 
early as is customary. 
The most excellent fruit store I have ever known was a long shed, the 
walls of which on each side were only 2 feet high, with a sharp pitched 
roof of thatch 8 feet in thickness, and with an opening in each gable for 
ventilation; at the southern end was a plantation of trees and shrubs 
which effectually screened the store from the early morning and midday 
sun. It was divided into three compartments—one tor early, the second 
for the medium season, and the third for late fruit. The floor on each 
side the central path was perfectly dry, and on it was placed a layer of 
powdered charcoal, and on this the bulk of the fruit was placed, while on 
