March 19, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
239 
draining all their juices. More than one species, in fact, of aphis or 
plant louse resorts to the Turnip ; the two that are most familiar to us 
are that called Aphis dianthi and A. flos-rapae. The latter is thus named 
because it chiefly infests the flower stalks ; it is greenish, covered par¬ 
tially with a white dust; the former is of a greenish red or hrown. In 
both the flies are black and yellow. They are not confined to Turnips 
and Swedes, for they are partial to Potatoes, and indeed distribute them¬ 
selves over a variety of plants in gardens and fields. It would appear 
that the winter is passed by the species in the egg state, where cannot 
be stated positively, but wingless females, parents of a succession of 
swarms, may be detected at an early date, before the Turnips are strong 
-enough to defy the attacks of these and other spring insects. Where 
they appear on a bed of Turnips in a garden, it may be the best plan 
to pull up at once any badly infested plants, and atrip off all leaves on 
which aphides are found when the plants are partially touched. Upon a 
crop that has been neglected it will be advisable to try copious syringing, 
and with some solution that will adhere to the skins of the insect, and 
so burn or suffocate them. Of the many applications recommended for 
■killing plant lice, tobacco water well impregnated with softsoap seems 
to be as beneficial as any for clearing Turnips. 
We may conclude this article by mentioning two small insignificant 
insects that are members of the Dipterous order, and that are scarcely to 
be called mischievous, though in some places it will be observed the Turnip 
leaves are somewhat disfigured by their larvae or maggots. They have 
not been known to gardeners until recently, and Mr. Newman, when 
describing them, stated that he could not suggest any remedy. Neither 
of these flies exceeds the size of a large pin’s head—one is called the 
black-horned leaf miner, in science Phytomiza nigricornis, the larva 
works mines or tracks on the under side of the leaf ; these are not visible 
from the upper side. These turn to pupa within the leaf. A trifle 
smaller, and having pale horns, is the species named Dryophila flava ; 
here the larva is as careful to keep on the upper surface of the Turnip 
leaf, and, at its maturity, this quits the plant to undergo pupation in 
the earth. One speculation with regard to these species is curious ; it has 
been argued that if Turnip leaves thus mined were to be eaten by 
cattle they would have an unwholesome effect upon the animals.— 
Entomologist. 
r^i 
WORRfortheWEEK.. Si 
_ 
IPhSiSs 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Broad Beans. —Those sown in autumn or early in spring, and which 
Are showing well, should have a quantity of soil drawn up to each side of 
them with a drag-hoe. A good sowing as a main crop must he put in. 
It takes about three months from the time of sowing to mature. Poor or 
light soil will never produce good Broad Beans. The stiffest soil in the 
garden will grow them much better than any sandy open part. Manure 
from the cowsheds or earth-closet is the most suitable. Open the drills 
about 3 inches deep, do not sow the beans too thickly, and keep a look 
out that the mice do not destroy them. 
Peas. —Supply those in frames with tepid soot-water; keep the lights 
well tilted or off altogether on bright days, but close them at night, and 
cover them, if n r cessary, to protect from frost. It is generally the dwarf 
varieties which are grown in frames, and it is an easy matter to close the 
lights until the pods are ready to gather. Those coming forward in the 
open should be earthed up when 3 inches high, and staked immediately 
afterwards to afford shelter. In late cold districts there may still be 
plants in pots, boxes, or turves under glass, and these should be placed 
out as soon as possible, or they will not pod before those sown in the 
open air. Sow more seed of the main crop varieties. These will be 
podding about the end of June, when the weather may be very hot and 
dry; and if the soil is light, form trenches, manure these heavily, and 
then sow the seed in them. This will make a little extra work just now, 
but it will be amply compensated for by the crop. 
Carrots. —Early Carrots in frames are now gaining size and are very 
apt to suffer from overcrowding. Thin them to 2 inches apart at least, 
and when the roots are large enough for use do not draw them all from 
the one place, but take them from here and there, and allow those 
remaining all over the bed to have more space to develope. The main 
crop of all, the Early Horn varieties, should be sown without delay. A 
light moderately rich soil, perfectly free from worms, will always pro¬ 
duce them in fine condition. 
Asparagus. —Finish forking or top-dressing around the old plants as 
soon as possible, as growth will shortly be general, and to disturb the soil 
after that is very injurious. Soot, salt, seaweed, and any kind of bone 
manure, especially B.eeson’s, will benefit the plants greatly. These may 
be turned into the soil as forking goes on, and where the soil is not forked 
sprinkle them on the surface and let the rain wash them in. It is too 
early to begin transplanting. 
Lettuce. —These are always welcome in warm weather, and to have 
<.hem constantly fine and abundant seed must be sown every fortnight or 
three weeks during the next three months. Germination will take place 
quickly now and in almost any soil, but as a few hundred plants may be 
raised in a very small space there need be no difficulty in giving them a 
good position. Should any of the winter stock remain untransplanted 
get them out at once. If there bo a scarcity of early plants put 
them in a warm position in good soil. The plants from spring-sown 
seed are now large and almost ready to be transferred from the frames to 
the open quarters, but before doing this they must be well hardened, and 
they should all be lifted and planted again with soil attached to the 
roots. Plants from spring-sown seed are generally much finer than 
those kept through the winter. 
Frame Crops. —These are generally in a forward state, and should be 
ventilated freely on all favourable occasions, but sometimes the lights 
placed over Potatoes early in spring are required for bedding plant frames 
at this season, and very often the vegetable crops suffer severely in con¬ 
sequence. They are kept close and warm for a time, ani when the lights 
are taken away they have generally to depend for protection on some 
kind of makeshift; but this is not the way to mature the crop properly, 
and it should be as little resorted to as possible. Keep the lights on, 
especially at night, for some time yet, and when they are moved try and 
prevent the leaves or stems being injured by frost or wind. Mustard and 
Cress seed may now be grown under a handlight or in a cool frame, and 
should be sown fortnightly for the next eight months. 
Chou de Burghley. —The present is the time to sow seed of this 
delicious vegetable to produce heads in October and late autumn. The 
seed and young plants are as hardy as Cabbages or Savoys, and no special 
care is required to insure success with it. 
Red Cabbage. —These are often sown in the autumn, and any plants 
in the seed beds now should be moved to their permanent quarters. Like 
other Cabbages they delight in rich soil, and will not succeed well without 
it. Those planted out now will form heads by August, but useful produce 
may still be secured this season by sowing a pinch of seed now and growing 
on the plants to head in October. Of the two we prefer the spring-raised 
plants. They do not become so large as the autumn ones, but they are 
more tender. 
Spinach.— A good breadth of the round-seeded variety should be sown. 
It will be ready in May. It is not particular as to situation. We secure 
good crops between Raspberry rows, Currant and Gooseberry trees, 
and Pea rows. A little shelter such as these afford is an advantage. Sow 
the seed in drills 2 inches deep, and thin out the plants to a few inches 
apart as soon as they begin to look crowded. 
Turnips. —Make another small sowing of the Early Milan. Sow in 
drills 18 inches apart, 2 inches deep, and very thinly. Stiff soil is very 
unsuitable for early Turnips. 
Look over stored roots, such as Beetroot, Carrots, and Parsnips ; 
remove all growths and decayed roots ; secure sufficient Pea sticks before 
the trees begin to grow ; clip Box edgings, and while putting in the 
crops do not fail to keep the whole garden orderly. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines .—Early House .—Early Grapes that have passed the stoning 
process will be greatly benefited by liberal supplies of tepid liquid manure 
given to the inside borders; and the paths, walls, and mulching on the 
borders may be sprinkled with it on fine evenings, but it ought not to be 
used unless the practice prevails of admitting a little air at night, and 
then the house should be sprinkled with the liquid manure a couple of 
hours previous to the night ventilation. Examine the bunches for the last 
time, and remove any berries that will interfere with their symmetry, 
also any imperfectly fertilised berries. Encourage lateral growth by 
pinching the points out of the strongest only, and tie these down to 
the trellis, allowing the weakest to find their way up to the glass, when 
they may be stopped. Commence ventilation early, and close in time for 
the temperature to rise to 85° on bright afternoons. 
Early-forced Vines in Pots .—Attend well to Vines in pots carrying 
full crops of fruit, keeping them well supplied with stimulating food by 
top-dressing and mulching, allowing the laterals to spread over the un¬ 
covered parts of the trellis. Maintain a moist genial condition of the 
atmosphere to insure the berries swelling freely, but avoid a close vitiated 
atmosphere, ventilating a little at night, and increase it from the early 
part of the day, clos'ng early. Very early Vines will now have tbe Grapes 
colouring, and should have a circulation of rather dry warm air secured 
to them constantly, at the same time moderating the supply of liquid 
manure to the roots ; but neither as regards the roots nor atmosphere must 
there be any sudden approach to aridity, or the result will be imperfectly 
swelled and finished fruit. 
Succession Houses. —Disbudding, tying, and stopping will need at¬ 
tention, and keep the thinning well in hand, commencing with the freest 
set'ing kinds, but Muscats and other shy setters ought not to be thinned 
until it is seen which are the properly fertilised berries. Maintain a 
gentle circulation of air where Vines are in bloom, and fertilise sby setters 
when the temperature has reached the maximum of the day. Let Black 
Hamburghs have a minimum temperature of 65°, with 5° more for the 
Muscats, Mrs. Pince, and similar varieties, fertilising these with Ham¬ 
burgh pollen. Remove the remains of all fermenting materials from 
inside borders, but keep those outside protected for some time longer. 
Late Houses .—The Vines where former directions have been followed 
will now be starting. Ply the syringe freely several times a day, give 
the inside borders liberal supplies of warm liquid manure, and endeavour 
to insure an even break by closing with a humid atmosphere of 75°. 
Strong young Vines that do not always break evenly should be kept in a 
